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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Frame Assembly. What is the bevel on the side bar for, and which way do they go?

Hello,

Got my order of medium frames today. The frames are easy to assemble, but I have a question about the side/end bars.

One side of the bar is flat, the area that will butt up against the next frame. The other side of the bar is beveled making it a flat bottom V that will butt up against the next frame.

Do I assemble the frames so that I alternate bevels or put them on the same side? :scratch:

 

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Two flat sides beside each other get glued together real well by the bees. The beveled edge, not so much. It makes removal of frames easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Should I alternate the directions the bevel faces or put them all to one side so that the bevel acts as an indicator for frame direction?

Ok, so I thought about it a bit more...

One end one way, the other end the other way.

Now, I will have a few that will confuse someone down the road a bit. Can't take them apart now, glued them together. :D
 

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Those appear to be Kelley frames.

All of the bevels go the same way. So it should look like this..

>.>>.>
| |
| |
| |
| |
>.>>.>

The theory is that the bees don't have as much contact to glue the frames togeher, so you can seperate the easier.

I'm not sure I buy it.
 

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I alternate the end bars, that way no matter which way you put them into the hive it is a bevel against a flat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I see advantages to both ways. Looks like it comes down to personal preference.

I was looking at having them all face the same direction so that it would be easy to place the frame back in the same direction it was taken out. I also see the advantage of having it alternating so that a frame could be turned if needed and still not have two flats against each other.
 

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If the bevel is on one side on each end as you look down on it from above, you will either have bevel to bevel and flat to flat or bevel to flat. If the bevel is on one side on one end and the other side on the other end, you will always have bevel to flat and never flat to flat or bevel to bevel. Got it? Good.

I think I said that correctly.
 

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A picture is worth a thousand words, do it that way. Except, instead of two nails thru the top bar, put one nail thru the top bar on the side where the wedge is. On the side of the top bar that is solid (without the removable wedge) nail thru the end bar into the top bar. Minimizes the top bar pulling off the end bars as the frame ages. And of course use good wood glue.
Regards,
Steven
 

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I was just about to add the same comment as StevenG, concerning nail placement when assembling frames, but he beat me to it.

I would also add, that if you don't use wedge top bars, and use grooved, like I do, then put both nails through the end bars and into the top bar.
 

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I build my like on the left, use glue and two nails on the top and one in the side.
 

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Findlay's example on the left is the way they are intended to be assembled, so that they are reversible.

Personally, I do not like this style of frame. Logic tells you that they would not get propolized together as easily or that they would be easier to pry apart. However, in my experience, they get propolized together more heavily and the lesser amount of wood material on the beveled side weakens the endbar ear, causing them to seperate and break more often.
 

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Reviving this old post, but asking marginally different questions.

1. On the end bar, is there any reason why the vertical break from 1 3/8 on the top to 1 1/8 on the bottom should always be an arc rather than a square break. My router can sometimes be tempremental, so I'd rather deal with my table saw.

2. Is the propolizing of the frames so significant that a one size end bar would be too combersome to separate?
 

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Aram: It does not have to be arch and let me tell you you want the dip, I have some HSC that is the same size all the way down and it is no fun to get out.:)
 
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