When I have a frame that is not attached good on the sides or bottom I put nails in through the holes that are there for the wires. Something like a 8 finishing nail helps. you can leave the nail. I use med and shallows I wouldn't try it with deeps. BTW don't put the nail in before they draw the frame they will turn the comb out to miss the nails sometimes.Newbee question, if you put rubber bands or wire around the frame while you extract would it be of any benefit? It would be messy but might save the comb?
I wouldn't let the diameter of the extractor influence the decision. You're correct that a larger-diameter model can spin slower. However, the reason for that is that you can build up the same outward force even with a slower speed. The outward force is what breaks the comb (and extracts the honey!), not the rotational speed.
I didn't know if the speed of a smaller diameter would affect it or not.
I have mostly mediums but i need to extract a few deeps every now and then
Coming up with an extractor basket that is geared towards top bar extracting (specifically the KTB in my case) would be a good invention for someone. When I was using all top bar hives back several years ago, I made up my mind I was not going to do crush and strain, for the bees to have to rebuild honey combs all the time didn't make sense, and it certainly wasn't the best use of their time, not to mention the amount of nectar or honey it takes to build comb.Sounds like a good business opportunity. Lot of people getting into the TBH. I'm new to beekeeping and to me extraction is a big drawback of the TBH.
I dont think so. Folks go with the TBH because they are trying to save a few pennies over traditional gear. One could spend a lot of time and effort developing a product, only to find the target market is so price sensative, they wont buy it anyways, at least not enough of them to warrant the development effort.Sounds like a good business opportunity. Lot of people getting into the TBH.