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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My cat shares the backyard with the bees and they don't seem to mind her being there. In fact a lot of times she sleeps right under the hives.
My backyard is mostly eucalyptus mulch/chips.

The fleas are really bad this year and we can't seem to get rid of them. We treated the cat and house with some non Neonicotinoid flea stuff (can't remember name now) that seemed to help for a week. The fleas returned with a vengeance! I didn't realize what was happening until this morning when I went out to water the flowers in my white socks. With in 5 minutes I had about fifty fleas on me! So the cat keeps getting reinfected when she goes outside.

I looked up the life cycle of the flea and apparently unless I can kill all stages (eggs, larva, cocoon and adult) of these buggers we will have them for good.

Anyone have an idea how to get rid these pests?

Thanks!
 

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Give the cat a long term treatment such as Frontline, Advantage, or similar.

What's happening at the moment is the fleas drop eggs on the ground which eventually hatch and wait for something to come along at which time they jump on to have a meal. But if they are cat fleas which they probably are, they cannot survive long term on human blood, they need the cat or certain other animals including rats and chickens.

So if the cat is the only suitable host for them, and you give the cat a long term treatment, over time the fleas will disappear but they can remain alive up to 2 years so the cat treatment does have to be long term. You could also try baiting for rats if you think there may be some of them in the area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I looked at the active ingredients of the treatments you listed and they all contain neonicotinoids. If my cat gets close to my hives or under them wouldn't that be bad for the bees? I have no idea how these pesticide work.
 

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Give the cat a long term treatment such as Frontline, Advantage, or similar.

What's happening at the moment is the fleas drop eggs on the ground which eventually hatch and wait for something to come along at which time they jump on to have a meal. But if they are cat fleas which they probably are, they cannot survive long term on human blood, they need the cat or certain other animals including rats and chickens.

So if the cat is the only suitable host for them, and you give the cat a long term treatment, over time the fleas will disappear but they can remain alive up to 2 years so the cat treatment does have to be long term. You could also try baiting for rats if you think there may be some of them in the area.
This.

I'm a veterinarian. I treat all my animals with Frontline. Bees are booming.

I seriously doubt the cat can impact the bees, even sleeping under the hives.

These products work by interfering with the nervous system of the insects in question, e.g. fleas and ticks, by contact; they work when the flea jumps onto your cat and comes into contact with the insecticide. There is no environmental control offered.

I remember the days before we had Frontline and Advantage. I had nothing to offer clients for fleas other than dips that lasted a day or two and were toxic to the staff applying them or flea collars which didn't work.

If the topicals really make you nervous, ask your veterinarian about the new chewable options such as Comfortis or NexGard. NexGard is NOT for cats, but for those of you with dogs, it is an excellent option.
 

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It can take 4-6 months to control flea populations. You have to wait for the living ones to die, then the ones in the pupae have to hatch and get on the cat to try to take a blood meal (and they can stay in the pupae for weeks to months, although not likely this time of year) and then the larval stage has to go through the pupal stage. Meanwhile, if you have stray animals or raccoons visiting your yard, they can drop off new fleas and eggs to start the cycle all over again.

So, tips I give clients:
Don't quit too soon.
Treat every animal that belongs to you
Treat every 30 days without fail
If necessary, resort to yard treatments
If you buy the products from a veterinary office, the manufacturer will send out a tech to help you if you do not have it under control in 4 months; thus, I do NOT recommend buying flea control products online or from the pet store.
Do NOT buy generic products; IME both with my own animals and with clients, they do not work.
DO NOT use anything not labeled for cats on a cat. Period. I have treated more than one cat poisoned this way.
And do NOT buy anything made by Hartz. See above point. Even labeled for cats, they are highly toxic.
 

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DO NOT use anything not labeled for cats on a cat. Period. I have treated more than one cat poisoned this way. [/QUOTE said:
Meaning, don't use anything w/ permethrin (or anything ending w/ "thrin") on a cat. Cats can't metabolize these compounds and are poisoned. I use on my dogs but have to make sure the cat doesn't play w/ them for a day after treatment.

If you have a lot of adult fleas in your yard chances are you have a die off of whatever hosts they were feeding on and they are now looking for new hosts. Not much you can do but treat your cat w/ frontline, ensure you don't have rodents or other vermin, and give it time for them to die off. Any yard treatment could affect the bees also.
 

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Sounds like you have a serious rodent problem that needs taking care of. Are there any jack rabbits or prairie dogs around by any chance?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Sorry to hear about your fleas Scpossum. I'm not sure about what to use on grass. Maybe food grade diatomaceous earth? You would have to be extremely careful not to get any on the bees.

This is a followup on how I got rid of my fleas.

-Bathed cat with flea shampoo. The cat hated it and I escaped with minor injuries.
-Treated cat with Frontline.
-Steam cleaned all the floors where the cat has been in the house.
-Added 2-3 inches of Eucalyptus mulch to the backyard.
-Added "Vacuum Cat" to my daughters weekly chore list. My daughter runs the shop vac hose out onto the deck and uses an upholstery brush. The cat loves it.

No one has seen a flea in over a week!
 

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Remove the host.

Why is this a Bee question?
Really? First sentence of original post.


Thanks Bigfish for sharing what you did. Trying to head them off before they hit the house. Going to lay down granules and then hit with spray on top of that. Bees are on the end of the yard and I am staying away from that side. I thought someone might have a specific brand of granule they had used. It has been quite a few years since I had this problem and figured something new might have come out.
 

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I guess I could have said, "Kill the cat. Problem over." I was trying to be nice. So, yes, really.
 

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I didn't want to kill my bees with flea poison so I asked what other people with more experience would do.
If you think that drenching the soil in your bacvk yard will cure your flea problem, then move the bees, drench, and return the bees.
Seemed like you were asking a cat question. That's why I asked. Seems like moving the bees is kinda obvious. Guess I was wrong. Good that you asked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
If you don't want to kill the bees then move them.
I do not have another place to move them to.
Anyways the fleas are gone and the bees are still alive. We can mark this thread as solved.

Thank you to everyone who posted with helpful advice!
 
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