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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have been offered a coliny that is in a chimmany and the owner of the property is up in the air as to how far he wants to go as far as removing them, it looks like a GOOD size hive and the space between entry holes, top to bottom, is approx 5' the chimmany is approx 2'+/-. Am trying to talk him into allowing me to remove center part of the bricks, and he is contacting his insurance company to see if enough of a concern can be raised to the possiably of damage do to added weight from the Bees (the mortor is really in Bad shape).
Knowing that the honey and comb would be lost trying to do it this way, would Bee-Go or Honey-robber be the best if he doesn't want to remove any bricks??



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'WHEN WE CLOSE OUR EYES WE ALL LOOK THE SAME' GWPW 03
 

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Local feral survivors in eight frame medium boxes.
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>Knowing that the honey and comb would be lost trying to do it this way, would Bee-Go or Honey-robber be the best if he doesn't want to remove any bricks??

Every situation is unique. If you can seal the bottom and the top well enough and there aren't other entrances they can use, or you can find them and seal them, then you could do the cone method. Sometimes this is too difficult, but usually it's the best method if you don't want to tear into the structure. And if you braing a strong hive out after you get the bees out you may be able to incite them to rob out the chimney and still get the honey.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
With the uneven surface of the bricks and me being unfamiler w/the funnel method I may have to use the Bee-go or Honey-robber I'm just wondering which is the better of the two.

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'WHEN WE CLOSE OUR EYES WE ALL LOOK THE SAME' GWPW 03
 
G

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There is no difference between "Bee-Go" and
"Honey Robber". They both have about the
same percentage of Butyric Anhydride, which
is what smells so bad.

It would be a very bad idea to use either
in or near a structure inhabited by people
or animals. The structure would need a good
airing out (days, maybe weeks), followed by a
good burning down, just to be sure.

A breeze board http://www.bee-quick.com/bee-quick/breeze.html
might help in this case, and use of Bee-Quick
would eliminate the risk of making the entire
house uninhabitable.

Given that the chimney is about the same size
and shape as a hive, this may be one case where
a repellent might be of real value in a bee removal
scenario.
 

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Local feral survivors in eight frame medium boxes.
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I would use the bee-quick before I'd use the bee-go or any of the other products. Bee-go and it's clones reek not to mention their saftey is a bit questionable.

And unlike Jim, I don't make any money on it.
He's giving you good advice (except I don't think I'd burn the house down)
 
G

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Sorry Mike, I don't make any money on it
either.

The Eastern Apicultural Society gets EVERY
penny of the profits. They use the money
to fund bee research projects.

And no, I have no involvement in the
selection of which research projects
get funding. I don't even know who
got what until I read the EAS Journal.

I don't need more money. I have lots
of friends, lots of bees, lots of land,
and no debt.
jim
 

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I sure am being a pain with these feral bees that I have cornnered . Here goes again .

Would that bee quick drive then out of a building wall with no insulation ? the area is about 14 feet square but up off the ground . This had wooden siding on both sides . The outer wall has several holes in it . Is it better to apply it from above or below them ? Would it also drive the queen out as well maybe ? I will get a picture of the end they are using tomorrow and post a link .

Drifter
 

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When you can buy a queen for $15. and divide a hive in an hour, only a fool would try to dismantle a chimney to get out some bees.
And only a fool would try to drive them out with some type of bee moving chemical.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
WELLLLLLLL THERE IS NO FOOL LIKE AN OLD FOOL!!!!!!


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'WHEN WE CLOSE OUR EYES WE ALL LOOK THE SAME' GWPW 03
 

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Well being I don't have a hive of bees yet I guess this fool is going to keep dreaming of a way to get some

Drifter
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I've gone thru the phone book and called extermators, most of the time they won't touch bees and are looking for people to take them. Careful make sure that IF you get calls to tell the people that you aren't a contractor, unless you are, and that you'll do as little damage as possiable, But you don' rebuild!!!! Or you could find yourself having to rebuild someones home or building, do this before you go out to the call, don't be afraid to find out how much they want you to do to remove the bees and what is expected of you after!!!!! Swarms are another thing--nothing like just walking up,spraying w/sugar water and shaking them into your hive or swarm box, colsing up and leaving after maybe an half hour work. And you might even get paid for it, let alone the bees.

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'WHEN WE CLOSE OUR EYES WE ALL LOOK THE SAME' GWPW 03

[This message has been edited by SilverFox (edited May 06, 2004).]
 
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