[Buzzlightyear]

How do you feed in the fall without setting off a robing madness.
I live in central Alberta and I'm thinking our flow is about petered out.

Story.
Last week I had a robing incident with my TBH after I removed some crooked comb and left it in a TB nuc on top. It had some brood in it and some honey. I thought the TBH bees would move the honey, not other hives. I stapled a V screen over the TBH entrance for 4 days (lesson learned) I didn't realize we are in a dearth.

I have a couple of new hives that are 2 deeps and not much happening with the 3/4 supers on top, foundation and not much drawn.
I'm not harvesting any honey and would like to get the supers full for them to winter on. I've read 2deeps+ a super to winter on? Will 2 deeps alone do it?

I would like to feed but I'm a little paranoid of setting of the robing again.

Some posts seem to say feed inside the hive and put on robing screens.
What works?
Thanks for any help.
Buzz

 

[UTvolshype]

I've been mixing up a gallon of 1:1 mixture and then cut in by added another pint of water.
So far no fighting over it but they do suck it down after two days. Temps are running mid 80 in late afternoon and night temps in 60s. Not much in blooming right now.

 

[drlonzo]

Personally if and when I need to feed, I do so at just prior to dark here. I open up all the hive's top feeders by pulling the lids, go back when I have the syrup ready and fill each hivetop feeder with what I want them to have. The trick is that you only give them what they can suck down into the hive that night. For a big colony 2xdeep, half gallon or so, for a strong NUC, 1 quart. What they cannot fill into open holes in the comb, they will use to pull new comb with. Wait about 2 days and go again if you are looking to get drawn comb. Gives them time to use up some of the stores or dry it down, and also the queen to lay up some of the empty cells, keeps the bees motivated.. lol

 

[zhiv9]

Feed inside the hive by some method - top feeders, paint cans in a super, bucket in a super, baggie, etc. Reduce to a single entrance and reduce that to a size that the hive can defend or add robber screens. You can feed 1:1 for another couple of weeks, but then I would think about switching to 2:1.

Is there no fall flow? Do you not have goldenrod and asters?

 

[TheGeneralsBees]

I always feed inside the hive, just behind the combs in my top bar hives. I do it mostly because it is really easy to slam a bucket or jar in there but it also seems to prevent robbing.

 

[stan.vick]

If you are in an area where you won't be feeding everyone else's bees, you can community feed away from your apiary. At least one hundred yards, a little less if you have a barrier of trees.

 

[Andrew Dewey]

I use inverted 1 gallon paint cans (thanks MP) above the inner cover and surrounded by a box. Even with wide open entrances robbing has not been an issue.

 

[zhiv9]

I use inverted 1 gallon paint cans (thanks MP) above the inner cover and surrounded by a box. Even with wide open entrances robbing has not been an issue.

Out of curiosity, what are the advantages to the paint cans vs a top feeder? by the time you buy the box and 4 cans aren't you getting pretty close to feeder price?

I never seem to have enough boxes around, especially not empty ones

 

[Andrew Dewey]

You need more boxes! :lookout:

I put my hives on a scale to check weight and determine how much feed they need for their winter stores - it works out to a rough10lbs per gallon. I can fill the cans at my home location and transport them to the yards where they get put on hives. I have a stack of top feeders in the door yard that haven't been on hives for several years.

Just yesterday I had a case of 36 empty cans delivered. I'd best get busy putting holes in the lids.

 

[zhiv9]

Thanks, Will the paint cans fit in a 6-5/8" box or do you need a deep box?

 

[ABruce]

You need more boxes! :lookout:

I put my hives on a scale to check weight and determine how much feed they need for their winter stores - it works out to a rough10lbs per gallon. I can fill the cans at my home location and transport them to the yards where they get put on hives. I have a stack of top feeders in the door yard that haven't been on hives for several years.

Just yesterday I had a case of 36 empty cans delivered. I'd best get busy putting holes in the lids.

Andrew,
are you using plastic or metal paint cans? What size holes do you put in them? And where, in the lid or in the base? I could see this being very convenient, my supplier sells plastic buckets with stainless steel screen inserts in the lids, but they are 500 miles away and shipping costs add up. Paint cans are available locally.
thanks

 

[Andrew Dewey]

Holes go in the lids of the metal paint cans - I use a 7 penny nail and poke about 20 holes. I just break the surface of the cover and do not drive the nail all the way through. If I get around to it I'll make up a jig that will speed up the hole creation process greatly. Medium supers are not deep enough to cover- you'll need a deep.

With shipping they cost about $4.40 each delivered (case quantity) - ordered through Amazon.

 

[Slow Drone]

Lowe's carry the 1 qt, cans for 2.97 and the 1 gal for 4.98 in my area for what it's worth. The cans work better than a miller top feeder or the like in keeping robbing at bay because they have very little surface area therefore reducing the odor giving off from the sugar syrup.

 

[Colino]

If you are in an area where you won't be feeding everyone else's bees, you can community feed away from your apiary. At least one hundred yards, a little less if you have a barrier of trees.

That's what I do, I feed a lot of feral bees besides my own and there are no commercial guys close. But because sugar is so cheap it doesn't bother me to feed a few extra ferals.

 

[Dave Burrup]

We feed with internal frame feeders. We have not had any significant robbing problems so far.
Dave

 

[Michael Bush]

>How do you feed in the fall without setting off a robing madness.

1) if you don't need to feed, don't
2) if you do need to feed, reduce the entrances with screen wire to just enough for one bee to get in and out.
3) feed all the hives so the strong ones are occupied.
4) feed the weak ones only at nightfall and only as much as they will clean up by morning.

 

[Buzzlightyear]

Thanks for all the help all.
Andrew I have more boxes but they arn't drawing the ones that are on?
I've been told you can winter with 2 deeps but things have to be right, better to have 2+ a super?
I guess that is where I am unsure, it's my first year and I would rather them have too much.
Going out to do an inspection today. I will get back with results.

 

[slimspickin]

[URL="[/URL]
I have been using mason jar with a piece of 1/8th copper brazed on. I do not have any problems with robbing and they are easy to change out.

 

[wpoley]

Could you explain the tube feeders for me.
thanks

 

[slimspickin]

Could you explain the tube feeders for me.
thanks

Yeah use any size small mouth Mason jar and I just drill a 1/4 in hole on the lid and the tube just barely sticks through and then I just cover the jar wwith a old plant container to keep the sun off. I can get more pictures when I get home if you would like.
[URL="[/URL]
[URL="[/URL]
[URL="[/URL]
[URL="[/URL]