[Mossback84]

I had a hive die (varroa, not afb) and I want to use the drawn comb and stores to give a nuc a running start. I would love some feedback on my plan:

1. Bringing the nuc home from the nearby apiary - Should I place the nuc in its new location, let them orient, then swap boxes? Or should I transfer the frames into a waiting brood box and let them orient from their new home?

2. Giving the nuc comb - I'm planning on putting the 5 frames from the nuc in the center of a 10 frame deep and then filling in the remaining slots with drawn comb.
a. How many combs of empty brood comb and how many with honey? I was thinking maybe 3 empty brood comb and 2 with stores?
b. Should I include an empty frame or a frame of foundation to give them space to expand, or does empty drawn comb serve that purpose?
c. If I'm using frames of honey as food does it need to be capped? A lot of the cells are full of nectar/syrup but haven't been capped yet so they probably weren't fully stabilized as honey, but they aren't moldy or showing any signs of spoilage.

 

[jtgoral]

In your nuc 1 sq in of brood will make 3 sq in of bees. 1 frame of brood -> 3 frames of bees. Things can explode quite fast under right conditions.

Maybe the Blinov Method could be of use to make right conditions?

This is a link to a YT video in English about it:

 

[Johnnymms]

The nuc will probably come with a frame of food. If the flow is on when you get your nuc you might not need to worry about providing them with a bunch of extra food. If the flow is on I would give them 1 extra frame of food and the rest drawn empty frames. I would give them as many drawn empty frames that you have first before you start adding undrawn foundation.

 

[Gray Goose]

1. Bringing the nuc home from the nearby apiary - Should I place the nuc in its new location, let them orient, then swap boxes? Or should I transfer the frames into a waiting brood box and let them orient from their new home?

either way depending on weather and your time.
do not wait more than a day or 2, some NUCs are packed and I have found swarm cells in them, do look.

a. How many combs of empty brood comb and how many with honey? I was thinking maybe 3 empty brood comb and 2 with stores?

good plan unless they have a full frame of honey , then put the honey and associated frames on the side wall.
Queens sometime do not cross a honey barrier. if way packed AND have a full honey frame with no brood, go frame 1 honey, 2 empty, 3456 rest of the nec, 7 empty, 8 empty, 9 partial, 10 full.

2. Giving the nuc comb - I'm planning on putting the 5 frames from the nuc in the center of a 10 frame deep and then filling in the remaining slots with drawn comb.

that will work, see previou answer in case the NUC has a full frame of honey, most of the time they do not.

b. Should I include an empty frame or a frame of foundation to give them space to expand, or does empty drawn comb serve that purpose?

if you have a lot of comb and no plans for it then give it to the bees, else it may get wax moths, if you want comb for splits traps etc. then 1 or 2 foundation and 3 combs is a good add for the bees. put the nuc off center and the foundations in spot 1 and 2, then a comb or 2 then the NUC.

c. If I'm using frames of honey as food does it need to be capped? A lot of the cells are full of nectar/syrup but haven't been capped yet so they probably weren't fully stabilized as honey, but they aren't moldy or showing any signs of spoilage.

shake them flat out on the lawn, if the contents fly out give them a few shakes, it is water.
If it is thicker and does not fly out easy then it should be fine.
I would keep the capped frames as they will last longer/keep better. use up the uncapped as it will mold sooner.
place the capped in position 1 and 10 or 1,2 9,10 of the second brood box when the bees need it. For winter they need most of the top box full any way. early like now they are better served with cells that are empty so they can raise brood and store nectar. full cells are of little use to bees in the spring, in fall they are required.

Keep in mind 1 frame of sealed brood, will hatch into 3 frames of bees. so if they have 3 frames of brood, in 21 days they will need "space" then in 3 weeks. I sometime put on an excluder and super first, then when almost full decide on brood box or second super, seems sometimes the second brood given early gets filled with honey, for me.

so when you transfer look closely for the queen to not squish. for sealed and open brood to guestimate the time frame for needed space. sealed honey frame to not leave in the middle of the nest. If packed look for queen cells.

easy peasy

have fun

GG

 

[Mossback84]

Thanks GG. Very thorough. I’ll do that shaking trick to toss the wateriest nectar.
As for storing capped honey for the fall - I’ve heard that a freezer is best, but can I store capped honey frames at room temperature? I’m not familiar with the threat of wax moths or other pests

 

[Gray Goose]

Thanks GG. Very thorough. I’ll do that shaking trick to toss the wateriest nectar.
As for storing capped honey for the fall - I’ve heard that a freezer is best, but can I store capped honey frames at room temperature? I’m not familiar with the threat of wax moths or other pests

IF there is any pollen in the cells , as most brood frames have this the wax moth lays eggs and then the wax moth laevae eat holes in the comb crapping every where. It makes quite a mess.
Freezer for a couple days kills the eggs and larvae.
some sort of moth proof storage box would then work to keep them, till needed.
a cooler, a small hole mesh bag, the wax moths can get thru the smallest crack FYI.

I just use a stack of "well sealed" bee boxes. painter tape the seams, block any hole , plug the entrance if using a bottom board. I if I have them just use 2 lids, ratchet strap to pull the seams together.

the sooner you give the comb back the the bees the sooner you do not need to guard them as much.

If ants can find then then that seems to be the next pest..
a NUC should need the second box in 4-6 weeks, the combs should last that long with some protection.

GG