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I just ordered queens for fall (actually should be called late summer) requeening. Reason is that some of the queens are just not building up like they should and I believe the wet, cold weather in Calf. may have had an effect on the virgins ability to mate. (one of the reasons) Anyway, I am doing an early requeen on the hives that have strong populations but are not building up or filling supers like the rest.

I will also be doing some requeening towards the end of July (usual time) using queen cells in the honey supers. I have heard this is an effective way to requeen and thought I would give it a try. My mentor says they used to use this method all the time with great success on a large scale.

Anyone else re-queening this early or have other ways of handling their fall requeening?
 

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alpha i'm re queening almost all my hives with cells in the supers again, starting the end of the week. I do it when our summer flow starts and i seem to have good luck. makes for nice fall and winter hives. Nick
 

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Alph6,
Placing a ripe queen cell in the super is called forced supercedure.
I place a ripe queen cell in the super 2x every 14 days.
Or,

Some of us make a divide over the hive using a split board. The split board is removed after the virgin queen is mated and the bees have develped a brood nest.
Good Luck,
Ernie
 

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Alph6,


Some of us make a divide over the hive using a split board. The split board is removed after the virgin queen is mated and the bees have develped a brood nest.
Good Luck,
Ernie
Ernie -
How about describing in more detail just how this "Split Board" method works. Is a split board just a solid board inserted between two doubles? Do you pinch the old queen before or after?

Thanks
Herb
 

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I will also be doing some requeening towards the end of July (usual time) using queen cells in the honey supers. I have heard this is an effective way to requeen and thought I would give it a try. My mentor says they used to use this method all the time with great success on a large scale.
I've tried this many times and never had it work unless I have trashed the hives first(made multiple nucs out of the hives so the remaining bees thing the queen is failing) would be nice if it did work but every time I try it on a "normal" hive they chew out the queen cell. and I can tell as most all of my queens are marked and still there after.
 

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have you tried cell protectors?

/QUOTE]

no cell protectors, I went back to a discussion on bee-l week 5 nov 2008, http://community.lsoft.com/scripts/wa-LSOFTDONATIONS.exe?A2=ind0811E&L=BEE-L&F=&S=&P=2243
, and it would seem the people that do get it to work do use the cell protectors, maybe I'll try it again with them but right now I have toooo many queens in nucs to put in hives and no cells coming. thanks

bee culture has an article this month on this, the author doesn't say how to do it but says its available on
www.mdasplitter.com , I've gone there but unable to find exactly where the info is, anyone find it?
 

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Herb,
The ones that I use are made out of plywood that has 4 bee way space cleats, 3/8" thick.
On one end I cut the cleat so that the bees have about an inch entrance.You can cut out 4 holes and double screen them so that the divide get warm from the lower colony.
When you pull the split/divide board, the bees in the upper super will go down into the lower hive and usually kill the older queen.
Ernie
 

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Ripe Queen Cell-Less than 12 hrs to hatch? Does a queen cell that is closer to hatching have a better smell to the bees so they don't chew it down?
 
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