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Ezy-Loader owners: I own one too and am curious how you manage a couple of things:

Battery power: My mechanic does not like second batteries so when I mounted my loader we upgraded my Ford's battery. The upside is no second battery, the downside is I need to keep the truck running when running the loader. Do you guys with a second battery keep the motor running?
 

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I run a second battery, independent of the truck batteries.
I have hitched up a battery isolator, so the lift will not draw down the truck batteries, but the alternator will charge the loader battery during transport and/or while truck is running if battery power is running short.

Usually I will be able to work the whole honey pulling day with one battery charge, but during hive transport, I will run the battery down in one yard.
So now with the isolator, while moving bees, I usually leave the truch on all day to keep the battery charged.
But during honey pulling work, there isnt as much lift work, so I'll have truck turned off during yard work.

Isolators are expensive and if I had to do it again, I would just hitch a solenoid up to my ignition to do the same work. They are cheap and much simplier
 

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Mechanic management.

My mechanic does not like second batteries .....
Is it your truck or your mechanic's? TELL your mechanic what you want or better yet do it yourself so it gets done right.

My EZ loader is a model 200MH circa 1998. Not sure about yours but mine has a 2hp winch.
2 HP at 12 volts requires 125 amps!!
But thats nothing. Every time you press on the bar there is a momentary in-rush current over 250 amps. :eek:

I Installed 2- 225 amp hour (1150 CCA) "School bus" batteries wired in parallel.
These are isolated from the truck's batteries until the "run" mode of the engine.

I can load or unload my entire truck with no noticeable voltage drop.

If you only remember one thing from this post. remember this:

YOU DO NOT want to run your loader on low voltage. Your loader has a number of continous duty solinoids that will ark, and even stick on under load with lowered voltage.
You brushes in the winch will ark and burn also. Spend some money on batteries, now.

Make sure that your wire is heavy enough also enough for at least 200 amps.

Also make sure to carry your manual or at least a copy of your electrical diagram for the EZ loader in your truck. If you ever have a problem while away from home you will really appreciate that.

No worries. Set things up right the first time. No worries.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My mechanic put an advancer on my throttle so I can rev the engine a bit, hit a switch on the dash, and maintain the RPMs to get the voltage the Ezy-Loader needs. I guess I just hate to run the engine, though it only runs a bit over normal idle. My mechanic is an old school guy. He told me he hates second batteries after working on pulpwood trucks with log loader booms for years. This guy always looks like he was just pulled through a hay stack backwards. Hand rolls his cigs with one hand and always has a hand rolled stub stuck to his lower lip - you know the type? However, he can fix anything and prefers to rebuild rather than replace parts -a real jewel!
 

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>>It turns on a continuous duty solenoid for charging.

ya, thats how Id rig mine up if I had to do it again.

the isolator is nice because it requires no moving parts, but they are $80 for a 120 amp, I think it is. And I needed a mechanic to install it. Battery isolators require an excitement start, which feeds off the ignition switch. Then run around to the batteries and such. Sounds simple but I could nt get it figured out.

solenoid for about $20, and wired simply
 

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Keep it simple. Keep voltage as high as possible. Run your engine during heavy loading operations.
Or, spend $250.00 every 6 years on AUX batteries rather than $11000.00 on a new engine every 6 years. Load with your engine off.
 

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Great thread and I'm finally in the ezyloader club, been wanting one for several years but took a while to take the plunge. Anyhow it showed up a couple weeks ago, and is now hanging on the back of my ute and I moved the first load of hives with it last week.

And as you told me I would Harry, yes I love it, so easy to use all my doubts melted away soon as I used it the first time.

BTW to keep the second battery charged I use a VSR (voltage sensitive relay), it's a little box that isolates the second battery, until it detects the starting battery is fully charged, then allows charging of the second battery. It also keeps the starting battery isolated from the second battery when the second battery is being used.

My ezyloader is the baby of the family, the 125. That's because beekeeping in my area is done with small 4wd utes, the bigger trucks you guys have would never get into the places we have to go here. Hence the loader being mounted on the back, so it can also load a trailer if need be.
 

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Oh it must be a local term, it's short for utility vehicle, here's a pic of mine with ezyloader

 

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It will get 4 hives with 4 inch landing boards plus maybe 9 inches for smoker etc, however long that is. IE it will take 16 hives per layer.

Remember this is just a retirement hobby for me now. But in this area, with steep country and high rainfall this kind of vehicle is what most commercial beekeepers use, the big trucks just won't get where you need to go.
 

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Pretty serious retirement hobby Oldtimer! I can imagine a number of uses for a ute here....above and beyond beekeeping. Who makes such a thing?
 

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Actually....as I look more closely, it resembles a pickup truck with a flat bed....something pretty common here.
 

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Oh it must be a local term, it's short for utility vehicle, here's a pic of mine with ezyloader
I was out lifting boxes yesterday. Google has been no help trying to find an answer to the question it's now asking me. What kind of price range does that baby version of the ezyloader run? Is the truck you have it on what we would call a 3/4 ton, or is it a heavier pickup ?
 
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