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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I did an even split today and did not see the queen. Can I tell from activity which colony she may be in?

Thanks,
Kevin
 

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You can check on them in 4 days and see which one has eggs in them.
 

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You should be able to tell after about 3 hours. one of them should be roaring, that's the one without the queen. The other one should be calm. In 3 days one of them should have eggs, and the other one should not. The one with the eggs has a queen. In 10 days, one should have queen cells and the other one will not. The one with the queen cells didn't have the queen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Three hours in I would say that the activity at the parent hive is fairly "normal". Some orientation flights, some foraging. Activity at the split, though, is very muted. I did put robber screens on the split hive so I think they could be figuring that out as I don't have them on the parent hive.

I'm asking the question about other ways to determine which hive has the queen in part because if it can be determined based on activity, there is a frame of eggs and larvae in the parent colony that I might bring over to make sure the split has enough eggs and larvae to produce a new queen.
 

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Aylett, VA 10-frame double deep Langstroth
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Kevin, since you did not find the queen, you leave both sides with the resources necessary to create a new one. Entrance activity is not a good indicator of queen status in a newly split hive. The roar previously mentioned is the second best same day means. First best is learning to find the queen. After that, eggs on day four is an absolute indicator. I generally just wait three days and see which side is creating queen cells, mark the date on the lid, and leave them alone for another four weeks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So 18 hours later here are two shots of the hives. The parent colony continues to have typical activity with foragers coming and going. The split has absolutely no entrance activity, therefore, no foraging at all. As I mentioned I did put the robber screens on the split hive but am wondering if I should remove them or should I just calm down and give them time to adjust to the new hive?

Split 1.jpg

Split 2.jpg
 

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Aylett, VA 10-frame double deep Langstroth
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Kevin, all is ok. When you make a split amost all the foragers will return to the parent colony. There will be very little, if any, foraging activity for about a week. The robber screen has nothing to do with it. In another two days lookinside and determine which split has the queen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks - I was aware that the foragers return to the parent hive, but even yesterday there was just no entrance activity at the split hive so I'm not sure how many foragers have actually left. Also I took a very brief glimpse inside and saw no activity around their feeding jars which is also a bit unusual as normally the jars have many bees around them.

I will try to relax and sit tight to give them a few days.

Thanks, JWPalmer.
 

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To tell by 'distressed activity' - you really need to move both splits around 10 feet away from the original stand, and from each other. One should put bees into the air, who start searching frantically for their queen, the other won't.
LJ
 

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So 18 hours later here are two shots of the hives. The parent colony continues to have typical activity with foragers coming and going. The split has absolutely no entrance activity, therefore, no foraging at all. As I mentioned I did put the robber screens on the split hive but am wondering if I should remove them or should I just calm down and give them time to adjust to the new hive?

View attachment 56747

View attachment 56749
A bit off-topic.
This robbing screen is too small to be effective.
I would make it tall so to almost touch your roof.
As small as it is now, it will only take the robbers few minutes to figure it out.
 

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Kevin, I just did this on the 7th of June. I was also looking for the ROARING sound but there was none. Same issue with parent site more activity and none on the other. 1 week later I swapped locations (next to each other). Now I know that the parent SITE has the original Queen and they seem pretty even with what is coming in and out. I DID put grass clippings all along the front of the hives right after the split which didn't seem to matter.

GL, I too am nervous of the outcome and I have yet to see the Queen other then when I first installed the Nuc. I don't worry about that now, I just make sure there are Eggs (Larva if I don't have my reader glasses on ;) )
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks, All - seeing a lot more activity at the split hive this afternoon with a lot of orientation flights so I think that they are figuring things out.

GregV - thanks for the reminder on the robber screen size. I don't know why I put those on their as Little John had made the same comment when I was building them. What do you think about this one shown next to it?

I always thought the higher screen would make it a challenge for them to haul out dead bees and other debris, but I guess they can figure that out too.

Robber Screen.jpg
 

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GregV - thanks for the reminder on the robber screen size. I don't know why I put those on their as Little John had made the same comment when I was building them. What do you think about this one shown next to it?

I always thought the higher screen would make it a challenge for them to haul out dead bees and other debris, but I guess they can figure that out too.

View attachment 56753
Should work better.
Have them get used to it.
In case of the actual event, I'd plug that upper hole down to the 1-2 bee entrance and the locals will still use it right away (being trained).
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I did my even split this past Saturday afternoon so this morning when I did an inspection would be 5.5 days since then.

The split hive only has this as a possible*queen cell.* That tells you what a horrible job I did in pulling bars with eggs or larvae - just terrible on my part.

Anyway, can you tell me if this is, in fact, a queen cell and can you see inside to say whether it is wet?* I think it is but need experts.* The bees were attending it and it is located very near the top of the bar. It's all I've got which, of course, makes me nervous.

Should I try and insert another bar of eggs and larvae from the parent colony?

If it is a queen cell, I think they cap it on Day 8, correct?*

QC3.jpg

QC1.jpg

QC2.jpg
 

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Looks as if it is a QC.
As far as "wet" or not - need a better picture.
Zoom inside (and if you do, you'll likely see yourself what it is).

Do another bar of eggs anyway; no need to wait.
You do want eggs, not larva (if you can see larva, it is already too old).
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Long story but I was not able to insert the frame of eggs and larvae on 6/26 and can’t get back to the hive until 7/2.

If this was a queen cell should it not have been capped on 6/26 since I did the split on 6/20?
 

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Aylett, VA 10-frame double deep Langstroth
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If this was a queen cell should it not have been capped on 6/26 since I did the split on 6/20?
Not necessarily, if you provided a frame with freshly laid eggs, the bees have up to four days to select a newly hatched larvae and then make the queen cell. That said, on day six you should have seen the start of any queen cells that would later be getting capped by the ninth day after the split. If the cell is not capped when you inspect on the 2nd, it never will be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I was not able to get to the split which I did on 6/20 until today, but fortunately saw lots of queen cells. They weren't on the frame that I thought had one, but there are certainly a lot more than what I saw on my first inspection. Lots of things can still go wrong but they did what they were supposed to do for the time being.
 
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