[AlanInNJ]

What are some guidelines about when to use entrance reducers? Do you leave your hive entrances wide open in late spring/summer?

 

[Tim KS]

On smaller colonies I use the medium opening, but on the larger, more populated colonies, I leave them wide open unless robbing becomes an issue.

 

[dkofoed]

I would tend to use the medium entrance across all my hives throughout most of the season until robbing becomes a problem in the late summer, early fall. In my experience however, it doesn't seem to matter much to the bees, they do fine (minus the robbing season) no matter what size entrance you give them.

 

[Bdfarmer555]

i use 6" entrances all year

 

[Fivej]

I think the only generally accepted guideline is the smaller the hive, the smaller the hole. In colder climates, most might agree to reduce as it gets colder. After that, you have a fight on your hands no matter what you say. J

 

[little_john]

If you fit anti-robbing screens which stay on all year long, then the entrance size becomes fairly irrelevant - I keep the main entrance (behind the screen) at a small size and only provide additional entrances if a traffic jam should build-up during a flow (which, around here, is pretty minimal compared with what many of you guys see).
LJ

 

[spunky]

The widest I go is 3 or 4 inches in the spring , in the fall, winter I go down to 3 bee width

 

[AlanInNJ]

Very helpful info, thank you!

 

[DocS9788]

GREAT Info, Thanks, so Much!!

 

[Jadeguppy]

I like the idea of entrance reducers to help limit the need for guard bees. My five high has a 4 to 5" entrance with no issues.

 

[Michael Bush]

>What are some guidelines about when to use entrance reducers?

After years of experimentation, I leave them reduced to about 2" wide all year around. I only reduce them more if they are weak and robbing is a problem and I never open them completely anymore.

 

[genusCastor]

>What are some guidelines about when to use entrance reducers?

After years of experimentation, I leave them reduced to about 2" wide all year around. I only reduce them more if they are weak and robbing is a problem and I never open them completely anymore.

Could this be a location specific decision? i.e., would hot climates (like east TX) need a larger opening for ventilation? I understand bees are good at temperature regulation, but it would make sense to me that there might be differences in air circulation requirements between a hive in TX vs a hive in AK. I also have a riser on the top hive screen for summer to allow air flow.

IOW, I wonder if a natural hive (in the wild) might select a more open ("airier") location to set up housekeeping in TX as opposed to a hive in AK that might prefer a more closed location. After all, these bees in my yard did not choose my hives to live in, and I can't ask them what they prefer. :scratch:

- djb

 

[Michael Bush]

>Could this be a location specific decision? i.e., would hot climates (like east TX) need a larger opening for ventilation?

Everything in beekeeping seems to be location specific. But I think it's a mistake to think that because it is hot that you are helping when you create a bigger opening or more ventilation. The bees don't cool the hive merely with ventilation. They cool the hive with water and controlled ventilation. Too much ventilation and they can't control it.

 

[Jadeguppy]

I'm in NW Florida and am seeing fewer entrance issues and shb issues with limited entrances. Wide open just seems to use a lot of resources, advertise where they are, and give shb a better opportunity to sneak in.

 

[genusCastor]

... shb ...

Thanks, Michael.

- djb

 

[ifixoldhouses]

Mine are a pain to remove so I can get the OAV inside, I am thinking just a piece of wood setting outside, is better than one between the boxes, where it's hard to get out.

 

[exmar]

I use hardware cloth mouse guards with a brick holding them in place, this effectively reduces the entrance to 3-4". Bees seem to have no problem, don't have to remember (or guess when field mice are going to start looking for a winter home) to add them in the fall, and deals with any robbing issues even though I'm not there to spot them.

 

[DeepCreek]

I think most companies that sell "entrance reducers" have 2 size openings, an approx. 4" to 5" opening and a 1" to 2" opening. This has been a standard for a long time. As my colonies have expanded I no longer buy entrance reducers, I make them. I always use the larger 4" to 5" opening. When robbing occurs I simply take the staple gun and #8 hardware cloth and reduce the entrance. I'm not going to take the time to pry the boxes apart to change the reducer to a different size. Most commercial beeks when building pallets also maintain a similar 4 to 5" opening. I don't think "the time of year" should be a determining factor, conditions should be.

 

[Jadeguppy]

Mine are a pain to remove so I can get the OAV inside, I am thinking just a piece of wood setting outside, is better than one between the boxes, where it's hard to get out.

This is how I reduce entrances. If I want the opening in the center, the board is still cut so that it sits on the outside of the opening instead of between the bottom and box.

 

[Sour Kraut]

>Could this be a location specific decision? i.e., would hot climates (like east TX) need a larger opening for ventilation?

Everything in beekeeping seems to be location specific. But I think it's a mistake to think that because it is hot that you are helping when you create a bigger opening or more ventilation. The bees don't cool the hive merely with ventilation. They cool the hive with water and controlled ventilation. Too much ventilation and they can't control it.

They evaporate the water by moving air over it.

So please explain your 'can't control it' assertion.

Thanks