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Just found this old thread. Maybe you are still wondering? Most of my frames are foundationless. I like to have 20% drone comb in each colony. (10% minimum) When having a fullsized colony draw comb on flow if I don't want them to draw drone comb I put in extra drawn drone comb before putting in foundationless frames. I prefer to have the individual combs 90%+ worker or 90%+ drone so it does not get too mixed up. Mostly I put drone comb in 1,2,9,10 positions. In nucs just 1 or 5. Usually small colonies don't build drone comb. In general, don't remove drone comb in hopes they will do better next time. You can move drone comb up and out if it's in your way but don't REmove it. Consider: the bees want drones; beekeepers want only worker comb. We create an unnatural imbalance in the hive. The bees will take every opportunity to create balance, such as ladder and brace comb. Once they have the amount of drone comb they want they will go back to building worker comb. If your nuc built a bunch of drone comb it feels big enough to support the local drone pool and is hoping to swarm this year. Give it some more space and more combs to draw in or on the side of the brood nest. Use them as a comb drawing colony.
Mentioned above: you can remove capped drone brood to freeze as a mite management/ treatment. I wonder if this would put selective pressure on the mites to prefer WORKER brood instead of their current apparent preference for drone brood? Maybe not a long term solution, but certainly could be useful in the short term (for those with only a couple colonies; try removing drone brood from 100 colonies and freezing it all on schedule....) Good luck. There's nothing like a perfectly drawn foundationless comb evenly full of brood. The bees make wonders... 🙂
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