[beedeetee]

Patience. Honestly I think that the best policy concerning new hives is to let the bees do what they want, unless it involves absconding, cross comb, etc. But I doubt that you speed up comb building by moving frames much. The end frames you can speed up by moving them in, but not total comb amounts.

For that you have to feed and be patient. You could take one of your honey frames from the first box and move it up to the second to try to speed them moving up, but I think that they don't build comb unless they need it and just by moving frames you don't change that.

 

[Hambone]

Hey Sean. Welcome to the forum. Lots of great people and great info shared here.

The bees will draw out (make) the comb. You will start with your package and start them on foundation or something else. The bees will draw (make) honey comb on that as a base. As they grow and have resources they will draw more comb as they need it.

 

[AmericasBeekeeper]

Buying your bees in a nuc would include frames of drawn comb and hopefully bees ready to emerge every day. Package bees have to turn sugar into wax scales to make comb. Package bees also do not start emerging for at least 21 days after the queen has comb to start laying in. Drawn frames of comb are your most valuable asset in the hive. You can buy honey, nectar (sugar syrup) even pollen but good clean frames of drawn comb are priceless. Take care of them once your girls make a set.

 

[crazyseany]

I've been reading this site for a few weeks (couldnt post..had a registration problem)

o basically the crush and strain method of extraction honey is super contra-produductive?

also I was just saying that alot of advice is to use drawn combs... But most of the BK101 ppl are newbs and probably don't have extra around....

how do you end up with drawn comb other then honey extraction (extra frames of it I mean)?

also would this be a good reason to run all Meds?
(i plan on going with 2 deep brood and med supers)

thanks again,
sean

 

[AmericasBeekeeper]

Destroying comb for the honey is counter-productive and labor-intensive for the bees. Extraction is the prime way to get comb. Comb is built in the brood nest too. Brood comb will be more attractive for swarms and such due to the brood pheremones. You are exactly right, this is the best reason for running all one size like mediums.

 

[devdog108]

I am using all med frames except for 3, which the nucs came with deep frames, for that reason, so that they can be moved from hive to hive. I like being able to move frames around from hive to hive if need be. I will equalize them before winter and give them all the same amount if possible and if their strength dictates it.

 

[beedeetee]

also would this be a good reason to run all Meds?
(i plan on going with 2 deep brood and med supers)

I use deep brood boxes and when I know that I want more deep frames drawn to cycle out old ones or to expand, I just put deeps with foundation on during the honey flow. Then I extract them, or use them in hives that need winter honey.

They are heavier, but I am only 57 so I have a couple of years left in me where I can do work.

 

[crazyseany]

that makes sense.... Being 33 I think I can handle it!

I've already bought the 2 deeps/2 meds and all the frames.... So I think I'm going to go with 2 deeps and meds to begin with... I'll have to figure out what works for me...

sean

 

[duck_nutt]

I know what you mean sean, about 'adding the drawn comb' or 'a frame of brood' it's a little harder starting out and you don't have any of these things..

a cut out helped me get some comb...had to wire it into some frames, but it was better than nothing

those will be milestone achievements!!!! drawn comb, and brood.......remember, baby steps

 

[devdog108]

I'll have to figure out what works for me...

sean

You have the hardest part already figured out. We all do it differently and learn from our mistakes IMHO>...

 

[WoolheaterFarms]

o basically the crush and strain method of extraction honey is super contra-produductive?

also I was just saying that alot of advice is to use drawn combs... But most of the BK101 ppl are newbs and probably don't have extra around....

how do you end up with drawn comb other then honey extraction (extra frames of it I mean)?

also would this be a good reason to run all Meds?
(i plan on going with 2 deep brood and med supers)

thanks again,
sean

I have to agree with AmericasBeekeeper on this, crushing up useful comb slows progress. Unfortunately, when starting out, the cheapest way to harvest honey is crushing and straining. I would go to local meetings and try to find a beekeeper close by and see if they would let you use their extraction equipment. There aren't may ways to get drawn comb without investing in time or feed. Just remember, they won't draw foundation without a honey flow or stimulative feeding. Also, you might be able to barter some of your time for drawn comb from larger beekeeping operations.

Michael Bush (located in Nebraska), David Miksa (large queen rearing operator in Florida/Southeast), and economies of scale, influenced my decision to use mediums for all of my equipment.

If you are thinking about all mediums definitely read through Michael's site and he also recommends 8-frames, but I'm sticking to 10 frame mediums.
http://www.bushfarms.com/beeseightframemedium.htm#mediums

With extracted frames from established hives, I can drop those frames into a new brood box and give a package, or split, plenty of space and they take off. Most of the time, I put fresh frames of wax foundation in supers and let the girls draw it out.

 

[johng]

I did like beetree suggested. I used a deep box full of foundation as a honey super and extracted the honey, now you have drawn comb. I normally use med frames for honey but, by using a few deeps gives you comb to start packages on or checkerboard with or what ever you want.

 

[peacekeeperapiaries]

I always start off with deep supers on heavy blooms. When deeps are filled I super with meds from there on out. It sets me up for the spring with drawn comb to use when neccesary and for making splits/increases. We split to 5 frame nucs with 3 frmes of brood one pollen-honey and one frame of drawn empty comb. When its time we add those to 8 frame deeps with 2 more drawn and one foundation. The drawn really helps get them going quick.

 

[Countryboy]

Mentor is just a fancy word for sponsor. Find a mentor.

I'm trying to help mentor a couple people. For me, I want them to do good and their hives to flourish. To me it's no big deal to share a frame of brood or to give a couple frames of drawn comb to get them started in a box.

As I tell the people I am mentoring - I didn't have a mentor when I started beekeeping. I can't mentor everyone, but if I (and other experienced club members) mentor a few people now, they will be able to help others, and before you know it, we will have a club full of good beekeepers that will inspire new beekeepers.