Whatever happened with these? Standard 3/4 pine? I've not had good luck with pine as it seems to tear out dovetails a lot more than maple or other hardwoods like poplar even, but I've not heard of anybody making boxes out of hardwoods (except pallets maybe). Mediums or deeps? If they are deeps, any cup in the boards tends to make it a real pain to get tight joints. 1/4 sawn would be best of course, but I can't recall if I have ever even seen 1/4 sawn pine... Pictures please?Tomorrow we get to dovetail the supers we cut out today should bee a fun day.
Excellent info Robert. I don't really have access to rough sawn, so thickness is not really a problem for me anyways since I'm using commercial 1x stock. I nearly always use a dovetail slide on my table saw now though instead of my old router templates, so the need for a custom bit is irrelevant. I finally found a link to something like I use, but it still takes a little hand work with a chisel and a coping saw in the end to finish them. Here is the link. https://www.3x3custom.com/tutorials/table-saw-dovetail-jighockeyfan_019 "pine as it seems to tear out dovetails a lot more than maple" ----- It is not a piece of furniture but I have dovetailed clear pine drawers - successfully. All my boxes are dovetailed - no screws or box nails with glue. A squaring - gluing fixture worked well for me. My problem was the inability to buy a dovetail for full one-inch rough sawn stock. I only plane one side.
Pine is light weight and has good moisture absorption properties for buffering in winter.
Good morning! I assume that you are gluing all the cut surfaces, and looks like you are pin-nailing into the end grain? Any reason not to use narrow crown staples instead? Titebond III? Picture 3 seems to show one of the boards a bit "higher" edge than the other. Do you cut the top (or bottom) edges after the dovetails have been set? Looks strong though. Do you have any trouble to make sure there aren't any gaps in the inside corners?