They have enough air flow for the heat and curing honey Ollie? The only reason I ask is I run 1x2 furring strips w/ 3/8” cut out when nesc but run the full 3/4” when the flows on.I consider the 3/4" height entrance too easily accessed by mice, robbers and yellow jackets, so I use the 3/8" height entrance year round. If you watch during yellow jacket season they just fly right into the deep entrances but not the shallow ones.
I use ⅜” all year. Works great.I consider the 3/4" height entrance too easily accessed by mice, robbers and yellow jackets, so I use the 3/8" height entrance year round.
I love the simplicity of the 2 runner solid bottom boards that have dadoes on the inside of the runners for the deck boards.
The idea of them being "reversable", I know is true, but the reality is you want the extra material on the one side for the strength of the runners, and the other side @ 3/8" for the hive opening.
Any thing larger than 3/8 is unnecessary except to allow the larger size glow plug on the OAV unit block, and mice in the entrance.
Me, +-20 years, solid bottoms with 3/8" entrance, OAV unit that fits it ("Varrocleaner"), and never a mouse in my hives even though they are out in the field 24/7/365 on stands with the top only 8" off the ground.
Moths will work a hive with a 3/8 entrance just as well, and that size is no barrier to mice either. It may make it a tad easier for a hive to defend against robbers but i certainly wouldn't rely on it.YEA MAN I do the same all my BB are custom with 3/8 to 1/2 inch gap plywood painted and lipped. traditional bb turn into either robbers moths or mice.