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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need to build an electric fence around 6 hives. They are sitting on 8 ft 2x12's with 2 on each board. So for all intense purposes, the fenced in area would be 35'X 10'. Small for sure.
I have dug around online and just can't figure out exactly what I need and no other beeks I know in the area have electric fences around their hives for advice.
Any advice would be super helpful!!!
 

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Sorry Radar. Should have mentioned that. It's cows. I've never had hives in the same field as cattle. Most folks have said that cows won't bother them UNLESS they need to scratch. Then they tend to tip them over.
 

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Just a thought for you. If you have a skunk problems at the same time. Run a hot run over the entrances.
 

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A few cattle panels from TSC or similar and a few "t"-post would probably do what you need with less headache.
 

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If you put a run or two of electric the posts and structure do not need to be terrifically strong. If not electrified whatever you put in will have to be literally bull strong because they rub hard when itchy and they blunder into things when chasing each other.
 

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A few cattle panels from TSC or similar and a few "t"-post would probably do what you need with less headache.
this....electric fences take work to set up and maintain. spend the money on some fence instead. just rebar them into the ground
 

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We run 10 outyards in Bear Central in the New York Finger Lakes Region. We done all kinds of configurations and found simple works best. Short fiberglass or steel rod type poles with the yellow insulators. Yellow jacket chargers (run on DCell or marine battery..we use de cells and change every two months). 1 hot line 8 inches off the ground, a second 18 inches. Dip strips of muslin in bacon fat and hang it every 8 feet or so...some on the top wire, a few on the bottom. The secret here is to get the target animals nose, lips etc on the fence and educate him. We have not lost a hive in many years with this effort. Make sure you have a good ground! Re dip your muslin strips every 3 months.
 

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We run 10 outyards in Bear Central in the New York Finger Lakes Region. We done all kinds of configurations and found simple works best. Short fiberglass or steel rod type poles with the yellow insulators. Yellow jacket chargers (run on DCell or marine battery..we use de cells and change every two months). 1 hot line 8 inches off the ground, a second 18 inches. Dip strips of muslin in bacon fat and hang it every 8 feet or so...some on the top wire, a few on the bottom. The secret here is to get the target animals nose, lips etc on the fence and educate him. We have not lost a hive in many years with this effort. Make sure you have a good ground! Re dip your muslin strips every 3 months.
Yes!:thumbsup: I have fenced in and fenced out, bears, raccoons, cows and horses; anything strong enough and tight enough to physically contain them is one whole heck of a lot more work, expense, and maintenance than electrified fence. Permanent fence lends itself to high tensile and electric. More temporary, multiconductor plastic and very temporary, step in fiberglass rods.

Any concern about baiting the fence drawing in bears is negated by the fact that a bear can smell the aroma coming off bee hives a lot further than the smelly tabs on the fence that gives the bear something to sniff at before he gets his head and shoulders through on his way into the hives. On the nose gets his attention! On the body, forget it!
 

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I have sheep & 1 donkey that I have to keep fenced in or out. I have net wire field fence mostly but have used electric as a temporary fence. It worked for a summer but I had to weed it about once a month or it would ground out. And any fence put up must be strong as animal wil scratch or lean thru to eat the grass that is always greener on the other side.for that small of area I'd go with cattle panels and a T post at each connection point and one in the middle. My donkey scracthes his rear on this fence and no problems after 2 years.
 
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