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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone reduced their 10 frame hive down to a 8 frame hive to help a NUC installation?
Is it really needed?
Or is it better to just give them 5 new frames and let them have at it?
Noobie here so I have no drawn comb and my thinking was the would expand with less pressure.
I tend to overthink stuff and just want to make things easier for the bees.
Comments and Concerns anyone ?
Thank you,
Joe

I hope to be getting my 2 NUCS soon.
 

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Local feral survivors in eight frame medium boxes.
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A deep box? Yes. I often put a 2 pound package in a five frame medium nuc, and I have also used frame feeders to reduce the size of the box. Typically I use frame feeders anyway, lately, in an eight frame box so most of them are reduced. The medium frame feeders take up about 2 1/2 frames.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Michael,

Thank you for your response.
I plan on running two 10 frame deeps for Brood boxes and then 10 frame mediums for honey supers.
I did build a couple 5 frame NUCS last year but I was thinking about making some of your resource hives to and try that when the time comes.

Joe
 

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Local feral survivors in eight frame medium boxes.
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> I was thinking about making some of your resource hives to and try that when the time comes.

Not that I don't do that, but Michael Palmer is the person generally credited with being a proponent of the idea, so I'm thinking you mean him.
 

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Give them the full five new frames (unless the nucs frames are inordinately fat and wonky and then only 9 will fit while allowing easy working, especially for beginning beekeepers.) Leaving out two frames in a 10-frame box will make problems for you.

A healthy, strong nuc, in good weather, with good nectar flow (or being fed) will rapidly start expanding and be working those new frames ASAP.

If the nuc has any vague notions of swarming, extra space is your friend. (As a new beekeeper you may not recognize all the subtle signs.

Make sure all your frames are as snugly tightened up against one another as possible. Don't leave extra space between the ears, thinking that will make the frames easier to manipulate. Keep any extra space consolidated on each outer side of the box. You are making brood nest frames here, not honey-storage frames, so smooth, even, and flat are the goals. That is best achieved by tight frames. Some people even shave a bit off the ends of the ears on brood frames to squeeze in an 11th frame in the brood area. (I don't, so I'm suggesting that, just using it as an illustration of how important tight frames are in the brood area.)

If you want to give your bees a good hint to get moving on drawing comb, and you are not using wax foundation, then give the plastic foundation an extra coating of hand-applied wax.

You are overthinking the concept of too-much space, but that's OK. It's warm enough enough now, and the nuc should come with enough bees to get itself going. Wax making requires warmth, sufficient calorie resources (nectar or syrup, urgent need for more cells for the queen to lay and a large-enough population both of overall bees, and of the crucial 8-12 day old younger bees, who are prime wax-drawers. Queens can lay 1200-1500 cells per, day so figure than a 1000 new bees are joining the hive every day. It's very likely if those factors are met, then your wax makers will be working 24/7 on their critical task. They will astound you.

You are overthinking the space issue (but that's OK). This is the one time of year when the expansion rate is so dramatic that most worries about it are tossed out the window. It all depends on you getting a nice, strong, nuc with an actively laying queen.

Hope your bees give as much delight as mine give me!

Nancy
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok Thank you Nancy.

I have new wood frames w/ plastic foundation coated with wax.
Some are double coated.
 
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