I don’t have much luck with “coatings” at least up here in the great white north, Thompsons water seal applies twice a year is the best I’ve seen so far but I have decided that duradeck vinyl is the best bang for the buck.
Snl, as a professional. My advise is stain it our with your choice of stain color, wait 1 week to dry well, and then 2 coats of spar urethane. Works great, and last a very long time. Goes on like butter with a brush, and applies fast. Thin even coats are best. I prefer 3 coats on my personal projects. Rich
Based on the advice of neighbor that has sold paint for 20 + years. Cabot Australian Oil, going on 3 yrs on top of the Arborcoat. No, I did not strip off the old Arborcoat, yeah that's what the can says to do. Too old to be stripping a deck.
Son, if ya like the color it is already. Just use it straight up. I never thin any product I apply. Works best as is , out of the can. Put a coat on this week, and come back next day and reapply. First coat will pull in allot into wood, so will look uneven. 2nd will look very nice, 3rd will kick !!! If ya choose to Put a 3rd. I do this for my customers, and it's premium jobs, and never have a call back to redo maybe in like 10- 12 years maybe.actually never been called to redo one of these decks, and I have seen many that I have done years ago. Looked very good, were a few that I rebuilt after 0 or so years, due to being in very damp or low areas. Could've lasted longer is a pressure wash occasionally, or a fresh coat after 5 or more years.
I was taught to coat it before you build it especially the frame. That does not work with PT wood, too wet. The weak spot is the side between boards and the bottom. I do not shovel the deck so some winters it is freeze, thaw covered in snow for months. How much effort do you put into the sides where you are? Here, the ones that rot are too tight. The ones that rot slowly are gapped well.
Salty, when I build outdoors, or anywhere there is moisture. I use pressure treated wood. Your right about it not accepting any treatments well or al all. I let my wood age after built about a month in dry weather. Then I go back an treat anything that doesn't move, or can be accessed and visible. Honestly, I'd think you couldn't hold wood to dry age from treatment, and do any projects in a timely manner. I guess that why it treated... spacing between deck boards for me are roughly a 1/4". This allows for expansion and contraction very well in most environments as well. Screws or nails.. I prefer screws on top boards, as the split, crack or warp in the sun. But, in reality.... everyone wants it done cheap fast, so the can get their grilling done. Sad but true fact. Everyone wants to squeak a dime, and understood. I let customer make that choice, i just state my opinion as to best quality practices, and let them choose.. their dime so to speak. I like quality, and peofessionalisim. A perfectionist, so to speak. But, reality check is not everyone lives by this, nor can afford it mostnof the time.
Its a true spar urethane. Which is treated as a oil base. Cleanup is mineral spirits on brushes. Clean em up good, and when you think you got it cleaned, clean again. Due to alphatic resins in the urethane. That's what make it so durable. There is a science to how different types of paints, and the sort dries. Latex dried in a circle pattern, oils dry in a square pattern, Polly urethane dries as a octagon, epoxies asna hexagon, ect. Ifnmy memory serves me correctly. The more sides a object has, the tighter the surfaces bind togather.
There is a certain amount of dry time, or actually cure time. Latexes cure in about a month, oils in a week, urethane in a matter of hrs, or days, proxies dry most in a few hrs. There is lots of data onnthis, can be researched. Chemical bonds, mechanical bonds, andnchemical/mechanical bond are good places to start. Kinda interesting science to it. Most homeowners dontbcare to research, and most apartment painters and semi professionals don't ever research these things. I used to work in a chemical plant environment, dealing with coatings, and r&d, and q.c on these products. Lol, it'll bore the heck outta ya, or the science side makes ya read more....lol
I generally brush them out. You can roll sometimes. With decking boards, they are cupped and checked allot. Due to weather, way it's cut, ect. I'd surely try it, and if not covering well, or air bubbles. You will need to then brush.
As far as rain, id say 24 hrs if you can. It dries to touch pretty fast, if not bad humidity. you need to cut off work a few hrs before a heavy dew if expected.
I'd say no less than 12 hrs., and 24 hrs is best. Basically similar to painting projects. For reference purposes. Remember, you don't have to do it all in a day, just break off even with joint. Brush with the direction the boards are run. Not a bad job, and it will gondsster than you think. Honestly. Helmsman spar urethane. I think by minwax. J u s t make sure to pressure
wash, and clean and dry deck is key to a very nice job.
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