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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone have any recommendations for fixing a tank I was given? It has a Dadant sticker. It is two separate tanks. The inner tank is removable and sits on little feet tabs that I think are part of the outer tank. The honey drain pipe connects to both the inner tank and outer tank with compression fittings with gaskets. I think both of these have been modified with homemade fittings. Do we think parts are available? I left a voicemail at a number I had for Dadant Metal Manufacturing.







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Discussion Starter #2
I think I need banjo bulkhead fittings.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The problem is the two tanks are not welded together. The hot water between the tanks leaks into the honey. Whatever original waterproof fittings the tank came with are missing. I need to return it to original condition with the proper fittings. I will take more pictures and again attempt to get hold of Dadant technical support.

Hard to see what your problem is.
First thing I would do is replace any galvanized fittings.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
What do the two rusty rods on the water level sightglass do?
 

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Aylett, VA 10-frame double deep Langstroth
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They support the through fittings and keep them from moving which could break the sight glass or cause a leak.
 

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If water is getting into your honey, you either have a crack, a pinhole in a bad weld, or the nipple has been turned, breaking the seal. My bet is that nipple since the valve is not straight down.

The outside nut seals the water from coming out around the pipe the honey comes out. I had a Kelley tank that started leaking there and ended up replacing it with a rubber boot, so don't panic if it breakers on removing it. Once the nut is off, you should be able to unscrew the pipe nipple out of the inside tank, put plenty of teflon tape on it, and reinstall.
 

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I have the exact same tank, purchased new in 1993. Dadant still makes this tank, with modifications to the water inlet and the cover. The new ones no longer have the opening to hold a bucket in place but I think everything else is still the same. The pipe extending from inside is 1" stainless and I don't recall how it connects to the inner tank. It's been a while since I've had mine apart. You are on the right track by contacting the Dadant metal shop...I'm sure they will be able to answer your questions and provide any parts if needed.

They used to come standard with a brass ball valve, as seen in your picture. Mine worked good but I eventually replaced it with a stainless self-closing valve. This is a nice bottling tank....congratulations!
Like other high quality stainless equipment, this will last forever once repaired to fix the leak.

Edited to add: This is a good example of why I highly prefer top quality American made honey processing equipment. If you ever have an issue they are just a phone call away and carry replacement parts for
everything they make.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have assembled the tank but not leak tested it yet. Does any one have a picture of the original hardware used to hold down the cover? Does anyone know what all the extra holes on the cover are for? Please send pictures if you have the same tank.

 

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The original hardware looks about the same as yours shown here except the bolts are shorter and have wing nuts. I assume yours has the original thin rubber seals along the top edge of the tanks which should fit tight against the cover when you tighten it down. That keeps the condensation in the water compartment.
The extra holes are to mount an optional stirring attachment.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Got the tank working. First crop bottled today. $93 dollars of parts and six hours of labor. Holds too much water inside to tip for draining, about 100lbs of just water weight. Fragile also the way it is two loose tanks plumbed together. Let see how long this rebuilt 1980's technology lasts. Thank you Penny at Dadant Metal Shop for parts and advice. The heater seems to still work well. For free plus costs I can't complain.

 
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