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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Dadant brand is known as quality equipment but....any one else have issues with their extractors? Motors undersized or controller not heavy duty enough?
I have (2) 6 frames extractors. Thought it would be nice to preload 1 as the other extracts. Both extractors spin well for about 1 min. then start to slow to a complete stop. I've tried swapping their controllers but zero difference. I've tested the controllers and getting 90vdc which seems spec. I've tested motor/controller dismounted from extractor and its runs great without issues. The culprit must be the load even though it starts and runs well for short period...as stated before. My guess is controller starts to build heat and affects extracting? One extractor is a horizontal motor mount and other is verticle. Both controllers going bad? Anyone else experience this?
 

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Four hives, two 10-frame & two 8-frame boxes. Two screened bottoms, two solid - all doing well!
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Have yours always done this since new or is this something that has developed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Have yours always done this since new or is this something that has developed?
Both were bought used in great condition. Immediately after bought, the 90 degree gear was cleaned and grease on horizontal motor. I normally clean and do preventive maintence on all used purchases. The answer is...they both have acted this way since I purchased.
 

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does the bearing on the bottom of the basket shaft have grease? bearings in good shape?
 

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Without knowing the power of the motors, which frequency inverters are mounted and how the extractor is built (if it uses ball bearings or other type, how the motor is coupled to the shaft of the machine) it is difficult to draw conclusions, what is clear is that if there are no mechanical problems (bearings) the extractor with the frames should rotate very easily by hand, is that so?
 

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AHudd has a good point. (y)From a Dadant Extractor manual:
Remember to keep the gate open with honey flowing out of the extractor while you are extracting so that you do not cause
undo stress on the frames as the honey would build up in the extractor. You can shut the gate while you are changing pails.
 

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Is there supposed to be a ball bearing that the bottom of the shaft rotates on? The three frame Maxant is made this way. These can get discarded when washing the extractor. Use food grade grease in bottom bearing and top bearing.

As AHudd noted, keep the honey level in the extractor below the tabs on the frame. If the tabs on the frame are dragging in the honey, the extractor slows down. The drag and reduction of cooling by slowing down of the fan in the motor will cause overheating of the motor, which reduces the life of the motor.
 

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Are you draining the honey as it is being extracted preventing the level of honey rising to the bottom of the basket?
That is a common problem, especially if you just got a new extractor and are learning the characteristics of the new machine. I mean, I've never made that mistake but "a friend of mine did" with their new Maxant 1400P. ;)
 

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Dadant brand is known as quality equipment but....any one else have issues with their extractors? Motors undersized or controller not heavy duty enough?
I have (2) 6 frames extractors. Thought it would be nice to preload 1 as the other extracts. Both extractors spin well for about 1 min. then start to slow to a complete stop. I've tried swapping their controllers but zero difference. I've tested the controllers and getting 90vdc which seems spec. I've tested motor/controller dismounted from extractor and its runs great without issues. The culprit must be the load even though it starts and runs well for short period...as stated before. My guess is controller starts to build heat and affects extracting? One extractor is a horizontal motor mount and other is verticle. Both controllers going bad? Anyone else experience this?
How old are these extractors since you purchased them used? I have a new one and it's great. Unfortunately used extractors may have had extreme use and that is why they are sold. I have always had good luck with Dandant products. They just whereout just like anything else.
 

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4ish langstrom hives
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I had one that would barely spin once. It had a plastic bushing supporting the bottom of the spinning cage, and I got honey is this bushing. The honey was so thick it was adding a lot of drag and the cage would barely spin. I had to take the extractor apart and clean the honey out of this bushing to get it to work right.
 

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it was more like this

Tableware Cup Wheel Body jewelry Wood


The bushing on the bottom didn't support any of the vertical load, it only kept the spinning cage assembly centered. A bearing on the top supported all of the vertical load.
 

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it was more like this

View attachment 69302

The bushing on the bottom didn't support any of the vertical load, it only kept the spinning cage assembly centered. A bearing on the top supported all of the vertical load.
Ok. Some old extractors mount bearings like the ones in the picture I attached and they are not a good option in my opinion because they end up giving problems like the ones discussed in this thread very quickly, besides the friction between the shaft and the bushing wall can always cause debris, not to mention that in many cases honey can easily get inside the bushing.
 

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I had a similar problem with a new 3 frame motorized extractor. Turns out that the basket sat too low on the shaft and was dragging in the honey level rising faster in the bottom of the extractor than it could flow out of discharge valve. The problem was solved by loosening the set screws in the basket assembly and raising the basket about 1 inch. Problem solved.

I also start the extraction at half speed and run about 1 minute while I am removing cappings on another frame. I then turn the frames inside out and run it at half speed for about 30 seconds and then go full speed for a minute or two while de-capping more frames. This removes the honey at a slower rate and the possibility of the honey pool getting deep enough to touch the basket.
 
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