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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If you cut the small cell sheet out of the Mann Lake pf 100's, is it the proper size to pop into a wood frame with top and bottom grooves?
 

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No, the inner, foundation piece of the PF100, after they're cut out, is a little too thick. I've remedied that by running the edges of some over the table saw blade, where the blade was just high enough to trim some of the cell wall bases off, on each side, but not too much, or what's left will be too thin and not stiff enough to hold the foundation in the frames.

They may also need their length and width adjusted a little, so they fit inside the frame, but don't forget to leave enough top and bottom, so they still extend into the top and bottom grooves.

I've used my band saw to cut the foundations from their frames. This leaves more to work with after the foundations are cut from the frames.
 

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Pretty much what Joseph says. I found the length was OK for standard wood frames when cut as close as possible to the plastic frame. Band saw is much smoother than table saw. If I had to do them on a table saw I would buy a fine toothed plywood saw and very definitely cut a piece of plywood that fits inside the plastic frame so it supports the foundation. Don't cut with the waste between the saw and the fence as the plastic kerf and saw blade makes for a very grabby possibility. If it is down near freezing temp the plastic will shatter. That is not merely being nanny; I had pieces go flying before I regrouped!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the replies. I did find a picture on an older beesource post where the person just cut the top bar off, but didn't cut the bottom flange off, and just let it rest on the bottom bar. I guess that would work ok, one less cut to have to do. I have both a table saw and a big band saw, but the band saw has a coarse blade in it currently, and it would be a big job to change it out. I would probably just buy as fine a tooth table saw blade as I could get and use that instead. And of course use the plywood underneath to support it.
 

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You may find problems with too fine of a blade tooth. The heat will start melting the plastic.
 

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jmji, that would simplify it the way Barry did by leaving the bottom on. You would just have to thin the one edge of the foundation to go in the top bar groove.
 

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Barry, you may be right about that; my concern was the grabbyness of the 24 tooth blade I was using.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You know, I just can't understand why somebody isn't selling the small cell plastic sheets by now, like the rite cell, it sure seems to me that there would be a market out there for them.
 

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If someone else started manufacturing just the foundation, you'd see ML offering it in a heart beat! Until then, they have no motivation to change.
 

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I got a reply:

Hi Solomon,

Sorry, but we don’t have current plans for a 4.9 mm plastic foundation sheet.

Ed Waggoner



I replied and asked what sort of numbers would change his mind.
 

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They would if everyone who buys the 4.9 frames stops buying them and sends them a note that when they sell it in sheets the buying will resume. They make more money selling the frames right now.
 

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Just send them a picture of someone manufacturing sheets and offering them for sale for a third what ML is asking for the frames. Nothing on earth makes a company change their business like competition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I got a reply: Sorry, but we don’t have current plans for a 4.9 mm plastic foundation sheet.

Ed Waggoner
I think that was a pretty poor answer coming from them, they could have at least explained their reasoning a little bit more. I am sure this question has come up a hundred times, maybe they are just tired of responding to it.
 
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