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I saw the frames upside down and assumed he did it because the top bar is thicker and the frames are resting on the bottom??? Sure makes them not swappable with a normal hive.

I cringed when I thought of him pulling a frame out and the tabs on the side of the frames crush all those bees as they slide out sideways from the way they were intended, or at the least push them into the comb/roll the queen. BUT I can't see the back to know if he shaved the tabs off the back of the frame, if he did and relied on the spacer in the back maybe he could get away with it but they would still glue the frames together on the front.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
they are upside down for the moment. might experiment with them a bit. they will fit right side up once i get the frame spacers in wednesday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
the frames are a bit of an animal all their own. they can easily be tabbed off with my table saw if I consider them a problem. would only need to do the rear of them though as the front would pose no threat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
the thinking is to lessen the burr comb or cross comb. might not work but it made sense at the time lol. there is a queen excluder between the levels also.
 

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On the Ones I build and sell, I space the rods 5/16 above the lower chamber, and the rod slots are such that they will adjust up if a queen excluder is used.
I have no complaints of Propolis problems, but some do get ladder comb, but its not significant.
And I rarely get ladder comb in my AZ's that I run
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
interesting Steve. so you have adjustable rods. im only worried about the ladder comb mostly. on the next one I will try with no divider. is your spacing closer with no divider? any pics you can show steve?
 

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yes Closer, But I will have search for a Photo to show this aspect.

My larger concern is with propolis since you are using cut down Lang Frames.

If you are on facebook than you can see this..
Other wise I will have to find another way to get this to you.
Read the captions on the photos and it should explain the difference between the AZ frames and the Lang. Hopefully you will undrstand why you want to use AZ style frames in a AZ hive

https://www.facebook.com/Steve4Bees/photos/a.1391106534306318.1073741872.104647639618887/1391106717639633/?type=3&theater
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
the metal spacers should allow for minimal touching against the back wall and side to side. the front also will be spaced evenly. 0307-Razmak-AZ-1-min.jpg 0307-Razmak-AZ-1-min.jpg if i put the frames in upside down would that give me minimal propalising?
 

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On the end bars the wings of langstroth frames will nearly if not touch, even using the spacers.
I just picked up two lang frames, used a spacer to space it apart, and and the wings are within 1/16 of each other, that will get propolized.

If you can trim those wings off than the risk is minimized

you are right they will not touch the body of the hive,

I hope this photo clarifies it
Screenshot from 2018-12-03 21-11-11.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
ok so I should only need to nip off the rear wings though. the front should be unimportant. never mind the front will have spacers also
 

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the rear ones you can break open if its glued. its those front ones you will not be able to reach.
If you dont care about the Concave groove in the top and bottom AZ frames are much easier to make from scratch than Lang frames. I would suggest just making them.
 
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