[chad2nelan]

We have a freak freeze coming on Tuesday then back to mid eighties a couple days later here in Colorado. I want to just put the reducer on it the night before the freeze so I can open it up the next day when it warms up again. Is that sufficient for one night? Supposed to get to 28 degrees. Coming into my first winter so appreciate the advice

 

[Vance G]

We have the same weather coming in Montana with snow at 6000 feet. The flow here is already history and I have entrances reduced because it is robbing season so Mine are reduced til it warms up in June.

 

[elmer_fud]

My plan is to reduce the entrance reducers on all of my big hives to the smallest opening. I have a small split that i am putting a 7 watt aquarium heater mat in because it has 2-3 deeps of bees and I don't think they can make it thru the cold without the help. I thought I had another 3-4 weeks before the hard freeze and I could get this hive strong enough in that time.

I also have a nuc with a non laying (new) queen that is 2ish medium frames that I think I am going to close up and bring inside for a few days.

 

[chad2nelan]

Appreciate it. Sounds like no big deal.

 

[GregV]

For one night of

Supposed to get to 28 degrees.

I would not even worry about it.
Go about your business.

 

[kilocharlie]

Another trick is to place a double screen board over a strong colony and place the weaker colony above it to take advantage of the heat.

 

[calkal]

I'm with GregV, If they have got any kind of strength there is certainly no worry that they will be cold. We regularly get down to - 30ﾟF here in the Winter and -20ﾟF for overnight lows is quite normal, I can't imagine 28ﾟ above 0 is any kind of a problem for any colony of bees.

 

[elmer_fud]

I'm with GregV, If they have got any kind of strength there is certainly no worry that they will be cold. We regularly get down to - 30ﾟF here in the Winter and -20ﾟF for overnight lows is quite normal, I can't imagine 28ﾟ above 0 is any kind of a problem for any colony of bees.

I think the bigger issue is a 60F change in 12-18 hours. I think as long as a hive is reasonably strong it will be ok though.

 

[GregV]

I think the bigger issue is a 60F change in 12-18 hours. I think as long as a hive is reasonably strong it will be ok though.

What really matters - if the bees cluster covers the brood.
A healthy colony should cluster and cover the brood just fine.
Anything outside of brood does not matter.

 

[kilocharlie]

And if they don't cover the brood, the double screen board still works.

But I, too, am with Greg, one night at 28 would only hurt a colony that is wet or left too open - full entrance, cork holes not plugged up, drafty hive box, etc.

It's good that you have your eye on the weather, though. That's a good beekeeping habit.

 

[calkal]

Covering the brood...good point, I was thinking about winter survival.

 

[username00101]

Why is the entrance of a concern?

There's about 100 other things I'd be more concerned about than the size of the entrance.

 

[GregV]

Why is the entrance of a concern?

There's about 100 other things I'd be more concerned about than the size of the entrance.

+1
Not even a concern.
28F for a night, folks.
A non-issue.

 

[bobo]

My question would be: will 28F be a hard enough frost to end the honey flow? If yes, then entrance reducers would be recommended to reduce the robbing that is bound to follow the warm up.
The bees will survive the initial snap. If the flow ends, then there are winter preparations to be made.

I live in Massachusetts and pray there's not a 'hard freeze' till mid October. But I wonder what will happen to you in the Rockies.

 

[fieldsofnaturalhoney]

Why is the entrance of a concern? There's about 100 other things I'd be more concerned about than the size of the entrance.

Interesting, the entrance would be one of my main concerns, as the night time temperatures are consecutively freezing. Particularly, to keep mice, ground squirrels, shrews, etc. out (think mouse guards). Also isn't the entrance part of the ventilation system?