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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hopefully this will be a continuation of the OT discussion in the plastic vs wax foundation thread.

For the most part, I use a couple of strategies when it comes to cleaning extracting equipment. I find that if I spray the chains and slide areas of the uncapper and conveyor with nonstick food sprays like Pam, the frames move much easier and wax and propolis buildup noticeably less. In answer to Ian's question on the former thread, this doesn't result in a gooey mess, just pieces that fall into the auger and get removed from the honey in the spinner.

To clean the equipment I use hot water and a pressure washer. This must be one of the most tedious jobs in beekeeping. There's got to be better methods or products out there.
 

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If you find something better let us know. I try and let anything I can soak in hot water for as long as I can...this seems to really help in wax removal. That and a stiff plastic brush and scraper. We use food grade grease on the chains but I like your idea of Pam...seems it would go quicker. I wonder if you sprayed it on the sides of the uncapper if it would clean faster. Next year have to give it a shot.
 

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I have heard "Pam" tends to get gummy after awhile, so I use a spray bottle with vegetable/canola oil on the uncapper and chains of the conveyor. Seems to work pretty well. Didn't do anything the first year and had a major problem with buildup of propolis.
 

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When we are done we simple open up the two big swinging doors and let the bees located behind the honey house have at it for a day or two. Then we start the task of micro cleaning. Just a tought, and we are a small 150 hive operation too, that might make a diffrence.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have heard "Pam" tends to get gummy after awhile, so I use a spray bottle with vegetable/canola oil on the uncapper and chains of the conveyor. Seems to work pretty well. Didn't do anything the first year and had a major problem with buildup of propolis.
I'd agree that Pam does get a little gummy after a while, though not a major problem. I have switched to the local Coop brand spray and haven't have a problem with it gummying up. Vegetable oil in a spray bottle is something I will definitely try next summer.

If I could find a food grade wax remover that would do the same job as the wax removers used for skis, and IF I knew it wouldn't damage anything else -- I'd be a happy camper.
 

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what about all the bee poop on the walls what do you do for that? I know leave the bees in the yard but there is always a few in each box. I was told window cleaner but hundreds of spots it will take forever and the inspector is coming.
After power washing everything each year we repaint the wall, ceiling, and floors. The worst area we have problems with is around the window.
 

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Ya, we also paint the room every year. I want to set up a washable wall. Any suggestions that will not cost a forture? Thinking tin is my best bet.
the mess is usually around the windows. Its better now that I have a better bee escape in place, less bees gathered on the window.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
One thing I`ve considered for the walls is the plastic sheeting they use in dairy barns. Forget what it is called but it is approximately the same price as tin. Alright, alright, I`ll open my file and take a look -- PVC ag liner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
do you have that on your honey house walls?
I don't. I have tin on my ceiling but my walls are painted. I think I'll leave them painted for now until CFIA forces me to change which will be probably sooner than later. I haven't registered with CFIA yet so I not sure what they will require.
 

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I'm not either, but working on it for next year,

What do you have on your walls Tammy? How about your floor?
When working towards your CFIA certification, what was the major work or changes to your facility?
 

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the walls and ceiling are chip board. Something i would never do again. When we built, the plan never included CFIA.

Food grade washable paint is on the walls. Really smelly stuff. I think that was the worst

The floor is straight cement. Nothing else. We now added anti fatigue matts that can be pressure washed

The other big expense was lights. Had to be either florscent lights with tubes and end to prevent shattered glass and gasses from escaping or coated incandecent lights that did not break. They too had a coating

Next and this was time consuming was the log book and detail book for looking after the honey house. It just took time to put it together. If you are going to be at the seminar i can bring it to show you.

The other thing is logs...saying you are doing what your plan put into place. That is easy.

The inspector reviewed our book and then got a copy, and helped us make some easy changes and he had ideas to simplfly the process.

We had to be able to lot and grade our honey if we were selling retail and farmers markets.

Submit an example of our label for our honey jars. The grade and the weight had to be a specific size.

To put the book together probably took about 8 or so hours of my time, including typing it up and printing it.

If i had to do it again, I would either tin the walls or use what they use in kitchens on the walls...some sort of white pvc. Easier to clean. I would make the extraction room just that, and have the ability to pressure wash it off.

If i had to do it over again...lol
 

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>>Next and this was time consuming was the log book and detail book for looking after the honey house. It just took time to put it together. If you are going to be at the seminar i can bring it to show you.

yes! both days, bringing the kids to waterslide while I am sitting in on topics

What kind of water system do you have in your facitliy?
 
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