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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
You were correct in your thinking about the raising the temperature would help with things not plugging up. But simply raising the temperature still won't solve the problem.Navy Boiler operators, Power house men will know what I'm referring to. Simply raising the temperature doesn't change it's pressure temperature relationship. Or wet steam. You have to put it through another process. And thats why I changed the name of my device from the patented name to Organic chemical vaporizer. Some Chinese company will steal this device if they figure out what it's doing.
 

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Thats the stuff re write the laws of physics, super heat the OA that should dry the wet steam or maybe we could add a few condensate traps, that should do it. there's nothing like a little smoke and mirrors to realy baffle brains.
 

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and because of these tests it brought me to treat from higher in the hive if possible.
I have been using a 1/4" hole in the solid bottom board, at what point in the back side of the hive would be better?
I lost the instructions that came with my vaporizer and do not remember if it was in them on this forum you were talking about where to insert the nozzle for best results.
 
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I found that the vapor beeing forced into the hive actually displaces air and when the top of the hive is closedm the vapor does not reach everywhere, so I found that by treating between the brood boxes I got better coverage up high and it all ends up down below anyway as all the particles fall down when coolled. So a 7/32 hole made in the frame rest area of the lower deep or second medium if you use 3 medium boxes does the trick. You need to make this hole as close to the top edge of the box in the middle so that the nozzle comes out between the 2 center frames. So you are actually treating into the space between the lower and upper frames.
You can see the video I made about 3 years ago
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Thats the stuff re write the laws of physics, super heat the OA that should dry the wet steam or maybe we could add a few condensate traps, that should do it. there's nothing like a little smoke and mirrors to realy baffle brains.
And to think the PHD guys had everyone afraid to heat up their vaporizers. So why didn't you smell formic acid when you stepped into that cloud of it? And thats the rest of the story.
 

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I block the entrance with a wet rag, my inner covers are made to let the bees be able to get between the inner and outer cover with an opening at the front to give air circulation.

OAV in the bottom board there will be vapor come out of the front top of the hive, meaning that vapor went all the way to the top of the frames and into the space between the inner and outer cover. Pretty good coverage I would think, but not an expert.
 
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I just noticed that the vapor did not always get into the top corners as the air seemed to get trapped there, so by lifting the input above the second lot of mediums I found a better coverage of vapor. Why use a wet rag at the entrance, you are inviting the OA dust to settle on the wet rag get disolved and wear out your rags much quicker. I steal my wifes dish towels but they have to last me or I will get into trouble stealing more. When the are dry I just take diagonal corners and roll them by swinging them between ny 2 hands then dropping the rolled towel over the entrance and just pushing it in a little with my hive tool, works great when there is no entrace piece in the hive. Thats how I struggled to treat with 2 pans. Now by the time my honey is off I have all entrances reduced to little more than a 1/2" cause I have major problems with robbing.
 

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I use a wet rag because they are easier to plug the entrance, the weight of the water in the rag makes it conform to the entrance better.
 
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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
If anyone is interested in the O.C.V. just send an email to

[email protected]

I am still running tests but if I could get an idea of what kind of interest there is in it, the ball might start rolling a whole lot quicker. There has already been some interest but I really need to guage just how much.
Again simply email. And thank you.
 

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If you can set your temperature to 220F then you will see the acid get wet from the molecular water being released and this water will boil off and you will be left with a dry lump of oxalic acid. You can then set up your temperature to around 300F then that lump will sublimate just like dry ice and that will be a gas vapor for a short while and it will not go far before ite temperature drops below about 280F and it will then condense into tiny crystal particles and this is the vapor you see coming out of a vaporizer at abot 300 To 400F. And that is why you see those tiny crystals all gathered onto the hait on amy arm. About 4 years ago when I was working on this system I noticed during the winter mornings that the cloud of vapor from the vaporizer being much warmer that the outside air would rise up quite highand you could see the sunlight twinkling on the millions of crystals in the sky and that is when I realised that the vapor was a particulate vapor and that fancy organic masks were not necessary, all that was required was a good fit with a good particulate mask, which cuts out a beard and mustache you can ask Adolf Hitler about that one.
This observation is interesting. Just yesterday, I realized I’d forgotten my respirator (fitted with organic acid cartridges) after I arrived at bee yard and was setting up to OAV. I really didn’t want to drive back home and set the day back, but really didn’t want to OAV w/o my respirator as I’ve caught small inhalation’s of Oxalic vapor in my lungs before and found it quite disagreeable.
pondering my next move, I remembered the N95 mask in the truck. I figured to use it would be folly, but decided to give it a go and see what happens.
Nothing happened. It was a completely uneventful session. The N95 seemed to work just fine. I figured I’d gotten lucky and swung by the house and grabbed my respirator on my way to next bee yard.
 

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I am a lucky guy cause I get lucky every time I use my N95 mask, and with that one way valve on the front makes it much more comfortable and coller than the rubber respirators
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 · (Edited)
The fix for the acid timing drop out of the dose cup is a rubber thimble instead of a copper cap . So it is still a peice of copper tubing fitting down into the capsule bevause I beleive that 8 gram dose is going to be valuable real soon.. But now it can be easily depressed and the acid charge drops immediately. Will have it documented soon.
 
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