Beesource Beekeeping Forums banner

21 - 40 of 41 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Thank you, My concern has been that the shed would be too cold as it would not allow the sun to get to the hive. The place where I was going to put them has a rock embankment behind them, but gets a fair amount of morning sun. Maybe I should just stick to my original plan. :)
The wind is your prime concern. Sunlight is very advantageous in the Winter. The more you have hitting the hive the better.It does a great job of warming the hive. Even if it means building your own wind blocks I'd go outside if the amount of sunlight is significantly increased.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,122 Posts
Brood or no brood is not the question. So you find no brood? What are you going to do? Not much. You know your location, you like the ledge, go with it.

From the keyboard of Michael Palmer;

I like new, epoxy lined gallon paint cans, on shims directly on the top bars...with empty hive body to protect from weather and robbing. The bees cluster around the can and warm the syrup. Excellent for fall feeding when robbing might be expected, and when the nights are cold. You can use up to 5 cans and the bees will take it down in less than a week.

New swarm, five cans is too much, unless a huge swarm try one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
Brood or no brood is not the question. So you find no brood? What are you going to do? Not much. You know your location, you like the ledge, go with it.

From the keyboard of Michael Palmer;

I like new, epoxy lined gallon paint cans, on shims directly on the top bars...with empty hive body to protect from weather and robbing. The bees cluster around the can and warm the syrup. Excellent for fall feeding when robbing might be expected, and when the nights are cold. You can use up to 5 cans and the bees will take it down in less than a week.

New swarm, five cans is too much, unless a huge swarm try one.
Can you send me a picture as to how the paint can works? I see I can get them from Amazon but just can't picture in my head how they would get to the syrup. Course I could google it I guess. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
So I put a robbing screen on first thing this morning while it was still dark and they hadn't left the hive yet, I was watching them coming and going yesterday and there seemed to be a lot not bringing pollen back. It will be interesting to see if I have a robbing situation going on.

On a side note, saw some brutal battles with the yellow jackets yesterday. Mostly the yellow jackets got the worst of it, but think one of the girls didn't survive. so sad. I have the reducer on and down to the smallest opening so they were able to do a good job keeping them out of the hive. Course with the robbing screen I imagine it will also keep the yellow jackets at bay.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,122 Posts
Google "jar feeder bees" for more info than you want.

This one has good picture; ( I did not watch the whole thing). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yanlJH_A0J0

Any old jar will do as long as it holds a vacuum. Mason jars are a standard that let you change empty jars for full when you get fancy with boards screens and such. More and smaller holes is my preference. Place one on the edge of the cluster, if it does not weep over night then put it directly on top of the cluster. Jar or can, theory is the same. For splits I like empty plastic peanut butter jars; emptied quickly so no mold, light, and do not break. Plastic will burp more that glass. A gallon is overkill for most new hives.

How many, more or less, frames are your bees clustering on?

I would not put above inner cover, you need it getting in now.

After your jar window closes consider this; https://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?290641-My-recipe-method-for-sugar-blocks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,122 Posts
Yellow jackets;

They will make your bees very defensive and just plain more difficult to work or refill feed.

A feeder jar on a board away from the hive in the sun will be an easier target than the hive and will draw most of them away. Not a lot of syrup in the feeder just enough to make a wet spot on the board.

For a more permanent defense; ( I would not put them on top of the hive)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2VOjRwJUMI
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
here is a picture, sorry it is not so good, I had to pull it from a video my daughter took and learned she clearly needs some instructions, lol so is this just capped honey? Copy of 028.jpg
Being this late in the year if I have no queen do I look into purchasing a new one?? Will the hive survive the winter without one?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,122 Posts
When did you catch the swarm ? I would not be sure yet there is no queen if the hive was mine.

That is pretty ambitious looking for a queenless hive. One out of 30 bees bring in pollen?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter #30

ok I have three short video's which I guess I can only post one at a time
Please tell me what you see. sorry the quality isn't better
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
When did you catch the swarm ? I would not be sure yet there is no queen if the hive was mine.

That is pretty ambitious looking for a queenless hive. One out of 30 bees bring in pollen?
caught them three weeks ago today, 1 out of 30??, hehe and here I thought they should all be returning with pollen. guess I am a slave driver, lol
yeah there is probably about a 1 out of 30 bringing pollen, what does that mean?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,122 Posts
I'm seeing capped brood at 14-17 seconds in video one or maybe just a very strong reflection. Not liking the dome shape though. Still photos with bees off works best, but even then there is often too much reflection.

For Fall , 1 in 30 is about what I would expect for pollen with brood or getting ready for brood. Reading tea leaves though. At three weeks I would expect to see brood or eggs at 2 weeks still maybe not.

Comb looks good, not wonky.

No it will not survive without a queen or will not be much left to start brood rearing if a few are left. Fall swarm is long odds anyway, save your queen dollars towards a package or nuc.

Freeze at 22 in 3rd, fuzzy view of queen running around the frame?

Unless you can get a local to look, just stay out other than to feed and let what happens happen.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter #37
Another question, do you use a reducer with the mouse guard?
or do you remove the reducer when you put the mouse guard?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,122 Posts
I am actually terrible about mouse guards. Only have a problem with deadouts or soon to be deadouts. I do not advise to be like me.

Reducer controls drafts in the winter, leave it in .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter #39
Since I collected a swarm of someone's bees the end of September, I am wondering if maybe they had a mite problem??
Now I that I have them housed in a hive and they are doing well considering how late they are starting setting up house, should I treat them?? Or will they be ok until next year?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,122 Posts
Yes I would. Wood bleach and sugar syrup is the quickest and easiest to set up. Randy Oliver is the guru of how.
 
21 - 40 of 41 Posts
Top