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A couple of us went together and bought a 20 frame Maxant extractor this year. Little short on cash now for a capping tank. Any good homemade ideas out there where you can decap, let the cappings drain, and set the decapped frames waiting on the extractor?
 

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I use a plastic storage box that I bought at WALLY WORLD. I made a 1" square piece of wood long enough to go across the narrow part, (you will have to use some sort of an anchor bolt (one on each end) to hold this in place) with a nail long enough to stick up through the wood to put the frame on so it would swivel around. I leave the cap-pings in the box with a drain hole into a gallon jar with a Knee High stocking stretched over the mouth to strain the honey. I use one box for cappings and one for the uncapped frames. Works GREAT for me.
Dale
 

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I did similar with a plastic "tote". I used two of them because they nest with about a 3" distance between them. I cut all but 1" from the bottom of the top one that the frames are put on for uncapping. I put some 3/8" expanded stainless steel into the bottom so it rests on the entire 1" perimeter of the top unit and made a place to stand the frame on with piece of square aluminum channel I had laying around. I put a screw through it for the lug of the top bar to catch on and sharpened it so it is easy to spin the frame around. On the bottom unit i just put a honey gate on it and it drains out after I do a few supers. I just carry the whole thing over to where the extractor is and pour it through the double sieve that sits on a 5 gallon bucket under the honey gate on my maxant 20 frame extractor. Every several frames I just take my uncapping knife (I use a cold one) and stir the capping around so the honey drains.
Not high tech but definitely one of the easiest ways to save money. I think the uncapping tanks, which are often just like the one I made, are a huge rip off.
I bet you love the extractor too. I doubt there is a better value out there but maybe some are as good. Just not better. I made a few baskets (3) for spinning cappings. Just bent up some perforated aluminum sheet material ot a sixe that sits in the extractor sections. These are about 3" deep with a simple open top. I load all three in the spinner and dose them with an even amount of cappings and start it. I've decided that there just isn't enough honey in the drained cappings to make this effort worth while so now I've just put the cappings out for the bee. If left in the shade and out of the rain etc the bees will leave just the super dry capping wax which can be melted.
 

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I use a stainless wash tank from our dairy farm that we no longer use it is the right height and frames set down inside it I put a stainless screen in the bottom for capping to drain
 

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Uncap into a barrel. When it is full set the barrel up on some pallets and punch a hole in the side down close to the bottom. Let the honey drain into some sort of container, a bucket or something.
 

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I knocked a hole for a 3/4 inch Meyers hub in the bottom of a 55 gal barrel with a valve to drain and put all my cappings in there and use a drum heater to melt the wax and drain the honey off before it over heats. We are running 100+ hives and this works well for us. Our uncapper is a cook and beal and the cappings drain fairly well in the holding tank befor going to the barrel.
 

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I knocked a hole for a 3/4 inch Meyers hub in the bottom of a 55 gal barrel with a valve to drain and put all my cappings in there and use a drum heater to melt the wax and drain the honey off before it over heats.
You would need to set that heater pretty high ......up to wax melting temp would you not? That does not overheat the honey?
 

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I watch and drain honey out as it heats up and when I get almost all out I turn up the heat and melt the wax tell its all liquid. Once its liquid I skim all crud off and then draw the wax out by the bucket full. All discolered honey I feed back to the bees in the fall.
 

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This may sound strange, but I decap right into the extractor... then when the run is over I just push the cappings through the opening with a spatula right into the strainer, I use a bag style strainer that fits 5 gallon buckets, more durable and refined then the usual paint strainer. When I'm done extracting, I just tie up the strainer and suspend it over my bucket of honey for the night and by morning all the cappings are fairly drained and dried and already bagged.
 

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I know some one that has taken a old 36 qt cooler. Has a lid and a built in drain. Take the hinges off the lid work up a board with a nail in it and a way you go.
 

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Cap over a 55 gallon drum? Sounds like a good idea for large scale but I've dropped more than a couple of frames and fishing them from the bottom of a drum would be a mess. Also just allowing it to fill up and putting a hole in it to drain says to me that the drum is then discarded and replaced. Clean drums are not easy for me to find and what do you do with them when they are done being used for uncapping?
To the op I forgot to mention that I replaced the gate on my maxalt with a better one and I put it on wheels to make it mobile but, I more importantly, these spinners don't have room under the gate for a 5 gallon bucket to easily fit under the gate. This makes no sense but that's why most people raise them up.
 

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http://i1110.photobucket.com/albums...omemade beekeeping items/2012-06-01074154.jpg

Most of the stainless steel and plastic in an uncapping tank is not used for anything except supporting the frames. Honey drips. All that is needed is a rack for the frames, wax paper to catch it card board to keep it off the bench and a pail. I was in exactly the same position as the OP a couple of years ago and went this route. I have not seen the need to change the set up. Additionally, clean up is a breeze.
 

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I use a plastic storage box that I bought at WALLY WORLD. I made a 1" square piece of wood long enough to go across the narrow part, (you will have to use some sort of an anchor bolt (one on each end) to hold this in place) with a nail long enough to stick up through the wood to put the frame on so it would swivel around. I leave the cap-pings in the box with a drain hole into a gallon jar with a Knee High stocking stretched over the mouth to strain the honey. I use one box for cappings and one for the uncapped frames. Works GREAT for me.
Dale
Should the capping tank be made of a food safe plastic or that really doesn't matter since it is not used as a storage tank?
 

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I guess that all depends on the end use of your product.
Ideally food grade would be the best method, unless doing something in a pinch!
You could buy a Maxant Bottling tank and uncap into that. When it gets full warm things up, drain of the honey, and then turn up the heat and melt the cappings.
 
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