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Grant,

Great to see you here again. I've got one of those though mine is a Maxant. Looks like it's being private labeled for Dadant. Nonetheless it works great and allows me to avoid the time drag normally associated with handling cappings. Don't take the top off to pour the cappings in though it's easier/faster. It causes it to become severely unbalanced (don't understand it but learned it the hard way). Once the cappings are in there let them spin to for 15-20 minutes while you're doing other work. I add them every hour or so as my chain uncapper catcher fills up. I don't empty the spinner until the end of the day (only 35 hives). They're slightly matted but mostly dry. I pull the flexible screen liner out that lets you get the wax out easily. I then drop the chunks of spun cappings into a double boiler bottling tank with a ball valve (very important) and the next day I'm pouring out molten clean wax (impurities sink to the absolute bottom or float on the top) into bread pans for cooling. To me the spinner is a huge time saver and allows me to finish extraction that day instead of letting the cappings drip for a couple weeks.
 

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I then drop the chunks of spun cappings into a double boiler bottling tank with a ball valve (very important) and the next day I'm pouring out molten clean wax (impurities sink to the absolute bottom or float on the top) into bread pans for cooling.
D Coates,

At the risk of hijacking Grant's thread, could you give more details about your capping processing system?

Which bottling tank are you using?

When you say the ball valve is very important, why?

I assume you use water in the tank with the cappings, right?

Do you filter the wax at all as it dumps into the bread pans?

How clean is the end product after first melt?

Do you need to reprocess the wax?

Is your bottling tank dedicated to just wax, or is it duel use as a honey bottler too? If duel, how hard is it to clean after melting wax?
 

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I have a 1950's or '60s Diamond Line spinner which I consider to be an "essential" in my extracting room. I have a mix of 8 and 9 frames in 10 frame honey supers, and also have cut comb left overs and topbar and Warre harvests, so I have a lot of wax / honey /cappings to spin. A newbee was recently poo-pooing the need for a spinner to me, so I made him this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ra0bG6Pcg1g
 

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If over 2% of your honey crop remains in your cappings then you should be using some sort of spinner. I would estimate that from 1/4th to 1/3rd of your honey crop is in the cappings "slurry".
 

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D Coates,

At the risk of hijacking Grant's thread, could you give more details about your capping processing system?
Which bottling tank are you using?
Maxant 16 gallon bottling tank

When you say the ball valve is very important, why?
Any larger solids have trouble getting by in a gate valve as the opening is smaller. You don't want it clogging.

I assume you use water in the tank with the cappings, right?
yep. the "honey" that is yields is fed to nucs though.

Do you filter the wax at all as it dumps into the bread pans?
depends on how it looks. If I do I put and old cotton sock on the exit to act like a filter.

How clean is the end product after first melt?
depends but many times it's ready to sell or use in the making of candles, soap and wax bars for sale.

Do you need to reprocess the wax?
if I don't like the way it looks or it's got lots of tiny brown flakes in the bottom I'll drop that brick in the solar wax melter for reprocessing. That usually happens the first and or the last pour. When I'm done with the last pour I pour a few cups of water in there and let the whole thing cool. The next morning I've got a huge 1-2" thick plug that's got all types of crud in it. Drop the whole thing into the solar wax melter and it's taken care of. If you don't put the water in there getting the plug out is not easy. With water, it gives and breaks and can be easily pulled out for the solar wax melter.

Is your bottling tank dedicated to just wax, or is it duel use as a honey bottler too? If duel, how hard is it to clean after melting wax?
It goes back and forth. I have 2 though. One is dedicated for bottling. To clean the wax out of it pour water in the with whatever is remaining with the wax. Get it up to 170 and the wax comes off on it's own. turn off the unit and let it cool. The next morning the wax is solid. Skim it off the water. If you want it even cleaner pour off the water heat it up again and wipe it out with a rag when hot. You'll pull a tiny amount of wax then too but it's not enough to notice. Considering the honey should get no hotter than 105-110 any residual wax won't get into the honey anyway.

Some of this is trial by error. You may come up with some better ways to do this than what I've described.
 

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Doing the math. You need one bag and one metal thing. That is 75 per x 3 so 225. I would bite the bullet and get a jr spinner before I tried to use the bags. Maxant makes the best stuff out there. I would not buy it though anyone else though. http://www.maxantindustries.com/spinners.html
Um...the "metal thing" is a kit (comes with 3 metal hangers), and you need 3 bags. Bought 4 bags, the metal hangers and still walked away for under $90. Lots of good reviews and have had excellent results myself. Works perfect with my 1400P. Your results may vary. The Maxant cappings spinner is on my list for next year but this will get me a long ways until its necessary.
 

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I have that spinner and the only complaint I have is that I should have purchased the bigger one. It does a great job of getting the honey out of the cappings. I find the spinner fills a 5 gallon bucket about the time my extractor is finished filling a barrel. I find myself cleaning the wax out every 12-15 super or so. At that point the wax will be about 6-8" inches thick on the wall. If you let the wax build up more it becomes more time consuming to spin out the honey and the balance gets wonky.
I wish I had the bigger one so I could get more supers extracted before cleaning the wax out but other than that I love it and it works exactly as advertised.
 

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I have that spinner and the only complaint I have is that I should have purchased the bigger one. It does a great job of getting the honey out of the cappings. I find the spinner fills a 5 gallon bucket about the time my extractor is finished filling a barrel. I find myself cleaning the wax out every 12-15 super or so. At that point the wax will be about 6-8" inches thick on the wall. If you let the wax build up more it becomes more time consuming to spin out the honey and the balance gets wonky.
I wish I had the bigger one so I could get more supers extracted before cleaning the wax out but other than that I love it and it works exactly as advertised.
Handling the cappings into the spinner is a bit cumbersome and time consuming. I'm starting to see the uncapper-spinner combo as the next purchase.
 

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Handling the cappings into the spinner is a bit cumbersome and time consuming. I'm starting to see the uncapper-spinner combo as the next purchase.
I uncap directly into the spinner. I use this knife:
https://www.kelleybees.com/Shop/16/...apping/4026/Kelley-s-Electric-Vibrating-Knife

When I first purchased the vibrating knife I was uncapping into a tub and transferring the capping into the spinner. I had a tough time keeping the spinner from going out of control from off balance. I then mounted my uncapping knife on top of the spinner and no longer have balance issues.

Now my bottle neck is my 18 frame extractor
 

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I use paint filters and my old old extractor. View attachment 26143
It's ancient but works good enough for me.
I have an extra extractor, 2 frame manual Jr Bench that I have wanted to use as a capping spinner. I want to try something like this next harvest--cappings in a filter bag and suspend in the basket and crank away.

How do you do it with paint filters? How long do you have to spin to get them dry?
 

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I have that spinner and the only complaint I have is that I should have purchased the bigger one. It does a great job of getting the honey out of the cappings. I find the spinner fills a 5 gallon bucket about the time my extractor is finished filling a barrel. I find myself cleaning the wax out every 12-15 super or so. At that point the wax will be about 6-8" inches thick on the wall. If you let the wax build up more it becomes more time consuming to spin out the honey and the balance gets wonky.
I wish I had the bigger one so I could get more supers extracted before cleaning the wax out but other than that I love it and it works exactly as advertised.
It used to say on the Maxant website that the junior was good for up to about 100 hives. After using it for a season, I would say that is accurate. I ended up deciding to upgrade to the senior for this season.
 

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It used to say on the Maxant website that the junior was good for up to about 100 hives. After using it for a season, I would say that is accurate. I ended up deciding to upgrade to the senior for this season.
I would say 100 hive isn't too far off but you have to remove the cappings often. I'm running close to 300 and it is WAY to small for my operation even though I'm making it work. I was running about 100 when I purchased it and it wasn't too bad then.
 
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