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If nailing by hand the splitless ring shank galvanized nails work real well. A size comparable to 6 would be fine.
 

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Tite bond III with 1/4" X 1" corwn staples (rabbit joints)
 

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titebond exterior wood glue and 1/4" x 1 1/8 crown staples from my duofast gun. Then painted with two coats of whatever light colored "oops" paint I find at home depot, lowes etc.
 

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titebond II the reason for that Its FDA aproved for indirect food contact. Second I found that using 6d box or also called 6 penny box nails work the best. but what ever glue you use make sure it is FDA aproved for indirect food contact.
 

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Our local Home Depot has the 7D box nails but only in one pound boxes. We use 1/2" crown x 1 1/2" staples. Impossible to pull them out without destroying the box. They HOLD!!!!
 

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I'll second the glue and nails others have recommended...
IF you're going to be building quite a few brood boxes and extracting supers, plus other general woodworking, and you don't yet have an air compressor and nail gun, now is the time to get it. Trust us, it can be justified! :applause:
 

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Nails and glue work good, but the reason i went to screws is if you mess up putting them together, or need to replace an end (Frame rest) you can take it apart without tearing the boards up.:thumbsup: Jack
 

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I switched from glue and nails to coated deck screws because in my climate the nails, even ring-shank would walk out of the wood rather quickly, despite the glue. The coated deck screws don't rust and stay tight. As brooksbeefarm said, they can also be easily disassembled if needed.
 

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I built some supers and hive bodies today. I predrilled frames and use 2" galvanized screws, it's much better than nailing. I also apply a good outdoor wood glue. The hives are really solid and the corners pull in nice and tight with the screws. A good tip is to check for any bow in the boards before assembling, make sure the bow side is outward and the screws will pull any bow in and the super or hive body will be nice and square when finished.

Greg Watkevich
 
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