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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I purchased three hives that have sat without bees in my neighbors shed for the past few years. The hives consist of two 10-frame deep boxes, two 10-frame medium boxes, hive-top feeder, solid base board and hive cover. The frames all have "new" unused foundations that are mixed between the black and yellow looking foundations. Other than some dust and cobwebs the hives look pretty clean. Is there anything I need to do with these hives before introducing my bees in a few weeks? Want to make sure I am setting things up right for my new visitors coming soon. Any help you can provide is greatly appreciated.
 

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It sounds like you are off to a good start on equipment. Just one comment, I would put the black foundation in the lower box. It helps with seeing eggs.
 

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Paint additional wax onto the plastic foundations. Paint the equipment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Now I may be mistaken but with the hive top feeders there would not be an inner cover? Currently it's just the outer cover only on each of the hives. I'm looking to build new covers this weekend as the ones that came with the hives are a little beat up.
 

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Paint additional wax onto the plastic foundations. Paint the equipment.
I don't bother with extra wax on the foundation, as long as it is waxed already.

Make sure you only paint the outside of the hive, with a good exterior latex. Ask for mis-tints at Lowes or HD, usually about $10.00 / gallon.
 

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I purchased supplies for (3) hives in August only to find out I wouldn't be able to get bees until the end of March. I received (2) packages of bees about two weeks ago. Granted mine was in storage for months rather than years, but I have been able to start off with out any issue.

You didn't mention having a queen excluder you might want that once you're ready to put the honey supers on top.

Also I ordered an oxalic vaporizer this week. I wish I had it right now to treat. Hopefully I get it in next week to treat before they start capping brood.

I'm assuming you've got a smoker and veil and hive tool.
 

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Make sure you only paint the outside of the hive, with a good exterior latex.
Basically, don't paint any surface that the bees will touch, but paint everything else!

(jury's open on the mating surfaces between boxes. Paint on those can cause the boxes to stick together, but it also prevents wood breakdown from moisture)
 

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Aylett, VA 10-frame double deep Langstroth
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(jury's open on the mating surfaces between boxes. Paint on those can cause the boxes to stick together, but it also prevents wood breakdown from moisture)
Not too bad if you allow ample drying time (weeks). The boxes are going to stick together from propolis anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I purchased supplies for (3) hives in August only to find out I wouldn't be able to get bees until the end of March. I received (2) packages of bees about two weeks ago. Granted mine was in storage for months rather than years, but I have been able to start off with out any issue.

You didn't mention having a queen excluder you might want that once you're ready to put the honey supers on top.

Also I ordered an oxalic vaporizer this week. I wish I had it right now to treat. Hopefully I get it in next week to treat before they start capping brood.

I'm assuming you've got a smoker and veil and hive tool.
I did get 2 full suits, 2 smokers, 3 queen excluders, 2 hive tools, 2 bee brushes, solid bases for each hive, a random ventilated base and additional frames and plastic foundations.

Not sure what an oxalic vaporizer is or does? Need to use the Google machine I suppose.

The hives have some pretty beat up migratory covers so I'm thinking about replacing with some telescoping covers. What's your thoughts on covers? Also with the hive top feeders, I don't need to use the inner cover right?

Thanks for all your help folks, it is definitely very much appreciated.
 

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Aylett, VA 10-frame double deep Langstroth
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No inner cover with the hive top feeder, but when you take the feeder off and put the honey supers on, you will want some sort of inner cover. There are options other than the board most of us use such as woven polyester and even heavy plastic sheeting.

The outside dimensions of a ten-frame telescoping cover should be 22" x 18-1/4". I make mine with 1 (3/4") x 1-5/8" wide strips and cover it with 3/8" plywood. You can simply paint them and they will hold up well, or add a sheet metal roof to them.
 

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(jury's open on the mating surfaces between boxes. Paint on those can cause the boxes to stick together, but it also prevents wood breakdown from moisture)
Paint them - wait for as long as possible after the paint has dried, then rub beeswax over the mating surfaces. It helps quite a bit.
LJ
 
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