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For those who make their own boxes and use a box joint, what size fingers do you prefer? 3/4"? 1"?

Trying to find out what makes the best top and bottom joints for supers and deeps. I have seen 1" used, but it seems that 3/4" "Gazinta" 9-5/8 and 6-5/8 better than 1" does.
 

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I built all my boxes using a finger joint the same thickness as the wood, so in my case 3/4 it gave me more glue surface than the factory built ones I bought . That's what they taught me to do when I worked in a furniture shop. While its not fine furniture I like the idea of lots of surface area for glue.
 

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I sort of split the difference and use my whole dado stack, probably 13/16" with the 0.010" spacer I add to the stack. If I can keep the jig from rotating in use, this gives me a very close fit and nice joints. Probably two more nails per corner than the factory ones.

Any width between 3/4" and 1" will work just fine.

Peter
 

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I make mine the widest that my stacked dado will cut. I think it is close to 1" or so. I just put the whole stack on there and then built a box joint sled around it. The wider you cut them, the fewer you have to cut! The sled takes a little bit to build but will save you a lot of time cutting joints.

Rob
 

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YEAH, I AM GOING TO MODIFY my plate so I can use the full 7/8" dado cut and the IBOX...at least that's what I copied from brushyMtn 8-frame mediums.like he says the wider you cut the less you cut....
I make mine the widest that my stacked dado will cut. I think it is close to 1" or so. I just put the whole stack on there and then built a box joint sled around it. The wider you cut them, the fewer you have to cut! The sled takes a little bit to build but will save you a lot of time cutting joints.

Rob
 

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YEAH, I AM GOING TO MODIFY my plate so I can use the full 7/8" dado cut and the IBOX...at least that's what I copied from brushyMtn 8-frame mediums.like he says the wider you cut the less you cut....
For using the dato blades do not modify the metal plate! You just make an insert out of plywood or the scrap material. Put the plate in and run the blades up through the material (put your rip fence over it so the blades will miss the fence do not use your hands). You can make it too thin and use screws to adjust the plate to the thickness of the table if you do not want to sand or have a planer to get it exact.
 

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YEAH, I AM GOING TO MODIFY my plate so I can use the full 7/8" dado cut and the IBOX...at least that's what I copied from brushyMtn 8-frame mediums.like he says the wider you cut the less you cut....
Does the Ibox go that big? I just bought one and played with it a little.

Greg
 

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I made my own jig to cut them with a 1/2 router with a 1/2 bearing on top.(pattern router bit) I made the jig so that the cuts are symmetric. 9 spaces .736. I cut 2 boards at a time. much faster
 

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The IBOX will go 7/8" at least...I think...It really works nicely. what the video and make notes cuz ya have to follow the instructions precisely fpr it to work right...I can post my notes from the video...
Does the Ibox go that big? I just bought one and played with it a little.

Greg
 

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For using the dato blades do not modify the metal plate! You just make an insert out of plywood or the scrap material. Put the plate in and run the blades up through the material (put your rip fence over it so the blades will miss the fence do not use your hands). You can make it too thin and use screws to adjust the plate to the thickness of the table if you do not want to sand or have a planer to get it exact.
My friend who is a professional carpenter/cabinet maker said the same thing about the plate...

He said I should make a zero clearance plate out of some sort of plastic that they make cutting boards from.....

All I wanted to do was just file the one side about 1/32' or perhaps a 1/16th" just for the added clearance to use the full 7/8" dado....but the instructions on the saw say not to? there are plenty of threads left on the arbor....

Why?
 

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Here is a fancy way of making a zero clearance insert, there are a lot of ways of doing it and just about every saw manufacture will sell one to you that specifically fits your saw.
http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/107/107-zeroclearanceinsert.pdf
I looked up the Ibox. Man that is nice! There would not be any reason that I know of to not have a zero clearance face plate, keep it safe. That dato tears through you there will not be anything left to sow back on.
BTW if you push the blade up through the zero clearance you will not have the tear out you would with a gap.
 
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