Beesource Beekeeping Forums banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
242 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Can someone give me the straight poop on when to what and how big it gets?

I made a bottom with just a 3/4" opening. I cut twice and it was still too short. I forgot to extend it past the bottom of the brood box. I was just looking at pictures from books and catalogs that showed bottom boards away from the rest of the hive. It didn't take me long to realize that something was wrong. I actually didn't get a good notion of the entrance reducer until I got a Mann Lake catalog Saturday that illustrates them from the front.

Anyway I have a hole about 3/8 x 2 in my version of a reducer. BTW the front of this used box is a bit worn out and allows a small entrance in a corner, now worn a bit more.

I digress. I know to use the small hole at first, then switch to the larger one. What next? Take it out and flip to the 3/8" side, that I don't have?

This is pitiful I know. I think it sounds worse than it is.

I was getting worried that there was robbery afoot, but I guess not. Top brood box had a few partially drawn frames a week ago. Today, all pretty much drawn, some brood and lots of necter. I put on a super! I got this nuc 6 weeks ago.

I have read so many books and so many posts here and I still know nothing. I'm lucky I still have bees.

Thanks for reading this far,
Matt
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
970 Posts
If its using in the second brood and a flow is on Put it out all the way let them have good air flow it will help ripen the nectar.Usally they will be ok, But you might want to keep close attention after you have whent into it or pull honey. then you might have to reduce it again for awhile.if you see robbing getting started.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
528 Posts
There are two types of bottom board clearances-
1. 3/4"
2. 5/8"

The two widths are for that variance.

Both should have a 2" and 4" wide opening that is 3/8" tall.

You will read that the 2" is used unless there is a flow (without robbing).
During a flow you use the 4".

Books and catalogs have varying thicknesses of this board. They range from 1-1/4" square to some modern ones that are 3/4" x 5/8" to accomadate either bottom board type.

I make my own from a 1"x4" that has a single and double 3/4"x3/8" notches. These are vary conservative, but my hives are over-split, weak, and building up and so I fear robbing almost more than god.

1x4 is excessively wide too, but I vary the color of my entrance reducers to minimize drift.
 

·
Vendor
Local feral survivors in eight frame medium boxes.
Joined
·
54,094 Posts
There isn't a "right" answer as to what size when or what sizes should be on the entrance reducer. The smaller the hive, the smaller the entrance, so they can defend it. On a struggling nuc that might be 1/4" by 1/4". On a booming hive it will be 3/4" by 14 3/4" (wide open). In between needs to be in between. How many in betweens? That's up to you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
242 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Well now I know how to answer any question about bees.

"It depends!"

I know this was such a basic question that it really isn't covered in detail in most of what I read.

I thought that I may have larceny happening, but it turns out that was wrong. I suppose it may be, I'll know it when I see it.

All my other livestock is rather predictable, but these are wild animals.

So much to learn and the more I learn the less I find that I know. I like this!

Seriously, thanks for the replies. I get a lot from the discussions here and the different points of view.

Matt
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top