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Unless you're selling them, Biermann? I have an Easy Vap, but now that Johno's retired, I need to figure out how to make these things myself if the Easy Vap ever blows a fuse and I'm not capable of repairing the device myself.
 

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I also remember reading somewhere in this long thread that someone, maybe it is JohnO, connects the mypin differently with the relay controlling return rather than live...? Or something like that?
Okay Alfred, I will give my way of wiring with a picture of the switch I use.

ITC-106 Wiring.jpg

We assume a 18AWG three prong 110VAC connecting cable.

Green goes to the frame with a jumper from the frame ring terminal to the neutral (gold color) terminal on the GSW-42 switch

Black goes to #10 on the ITC-106 with a jumper to the #1 connection (Line) on the GSW-42

White goes to #9 on the ITC-106 with a short bridge (jumper) to #8

One connection from the heat element goes to #7 on the ITC-106

The second lead from the heat element goes to the center pin (Load) on the GSW-42

The red lead from the temperature sensor goes to #3 on the ITC-106

The brown/yellowish lead from the temp. sensor goes to #4 on the ITC-106 BTW: if your heat display goes down when heating rather then up, switch the sensor leads on #3 & #4.

With this setup, the PID has always power when plugged-in and the bowl should heat when the the PID calls for heat. The LED in the GSW-42 will be on when the switch is turned-on and a good ground is present. If not, the unit should not be used because it is not grounded. I have seen problems with small power units & inverters on this.

Hope this helps. I will try to set a wiring diagram in here too when I get to it.

JoergK.

Switch Package-2.jpg

Switch Package-1.jpg
 

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Unless you're selling them, Biermann? I have an Easy Vap, but now that Johno's retired, I need to figure out how to make these things myself if the Easy Vap ever blows a fuse and I'm not capable of repairing the device myself.
I am selling this, but have no problem selling parts or components. We need more guys to build good units because I wanted this as a hobby, not building six a day. I have several main jobs and get a little tiered-out lately from this 'Hobby-job'.

IMG_8053.JPG
 

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Unless you're selling them, Biermann? I have an Easy Vap, but now that Johno's retired, I need to figure out how to make these things myself if the Easy Vap ever blows a fuse and I'm not capable of repairing the device myself.
Wait, Johno's retired!? Nooo! His easy vap changed my life and I don't have the faintest idea of how to fix mine if it were to malfunction. I guess I'm going to have to be very careful with it moving forward and pay attention to this post and many of you seem to know what you're doing - or maybe someone else will step up and offer something similar for sale in the future.
 

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I have a couple more touches to Iron out and then I will try my hand at selling them.
I will post a pic of my final product when it is done but I posted a pic of my Mark 1 a little while back. If you do Facebook you can see a vid of it working which I will try to getup on youtube soon. Once I get it going I will be selling at a price comparable to others though probably not as cheep as Johno was selling them for. I'm figuring in the $200 to $250 range, we'll see.
 

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Okay Alfred, I will give my way of wiring with a picture of the switch I use.
Thanks for sharing that. It is a way of wiring that would not have thought of. So your return from the band heater just returns to ground, and your switch only turns off the band heater but leaves the controller on. It is an interesting way to do it. I think I like the set up I have where the switch interrupts the power to the controller and therefore the band heater as well. I can see the advantage to having a grounding check though. I may ponder it a bit but will probably keep my wiring set up the way it is now, except maybe to add a fuse.
 

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I have a couple more touches to Iron out and then I will try my hand at selling them.
I will post a pic of my final product when it is done but I posted a pic of my Mark 1 a little while back. If you do Facebook you can see a vid of it working which I will try to getup on youtube soon. Once I get it going I will be selling at a price comparable to others though probably not as cheep as Johno was selling them for. I'm figuring in the $200 to $250 range, we'll see.
For those of you that have my vaporizers, if you have any problems I will still be here to repair them. I have repaired aout a 1/2 dozen so far, 2 with faulty controllers and others with kinked outlets. Retirement for me is not working 12 hours a day 7 days a week building 35 vaporizers a week so I will now take it easy make repairs when they come up and perhaps still make a few vaporizers from time to time.
 

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Okay Alfred, I will give my way of wiring with a picture of the switch I use.
Thanks for sharing that. It is a way of wiring that would not have thought of. So your return from the band heater just returns to ground, and your switch only turns off the band heater but leaves the controller on. It is an interesting way to do it. I think I like the set up I have where the switch interrupts the power to the controller and therefore the band heater as well. I can see the advantage to having a grounding check though. I may ponder it a bit but will probably keep my wiring set up the way it is now, except maybe to add a fuse.

I suppose that one could wire the whole thing to return to ground rather than to white/neutral and that way have the same ground check that you do but through the whole system?? hmm not sure about that. Like I said I am not an electrician, so my plan is to keep it very standard and simple.
 

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Thanks for sharing that. It is a way of wiring that would not have thought of. So your return from the band heater just returns to ground, and your switch only turns off the band heater but leaves the controller on. It is an interesting way to do it. I think I like the set up I have where the switch interrupts the power to the controller and therefore the band heater as well. I can see the advantage to having a grounding check though. I may ponder it a bit but will probably keep my wiring set up the way it is now, except maybe to add a fuse.
Distinctively NO! I use black and white on the band heater, only the grounding connector from the switch for the LED goes to ground!
 

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I have said it before and it deserves to be said again, johno should be
recognized for his creativity, hard work and selflessness and be named Beekeeper of the Year.
Further, all band heater vaporizers should be commonly referred to as a "johno" and royalties sent to him by everyone who manufactures and sells a band vaporizer based on his designs.
He deserves it.
 

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Distinctively NO! I use black and white on the band heater, only the grounding connector from the switch for the LED goes to ground!

That makes more sense to me. Thanks. I was really trying to puzzle it out. Ha ha ha. It didn't sound safe, but then I thought, well he knows better so... I get what your doing now.
 

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So I read somewhere that some folks were drilling out the Mocap Plugs to make room for enough OAC....
I am wondering what size Plug we are talking about? Because I have the 1.306/1.622 Size and the cavity seems plenty large enough for a good dose of OA.

Also curious if anyone has tried these:
 

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I use to, but switched to HUP7.5-04 #7.5 CAplugs and they have a large enough cavity.

The Forstner bit I use to use was 3/4" for the Mocap plugs.
 

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Do those band heaters have a bottom already attached?

For the Temperature controller: is there a plug and play model we can buy with everything included, so I just have to plug in the band heater to the correct slots?
 

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I use to, but switched to HUP7.5-04 #7.5 CAplugs and they have a large enough cavity.

The Forstner bit I use to use was 3/4" for the Mocap plugs.
You needed to drill out the Mocap 1.306/1.622 Size?
I am able to get 2 grams into it without drilling it out.
Maybe I am not using enough OA Crystals in my vape treatments....


You switched to the HUP7.5-04size at CaPlugs or was it the HUP8-04?
The HUP8-04 looks like the right size.
 

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So I read somewhere that some folks were drilling out the Mocap Plugs to make room for enough OAC....
I am wondering what size Plug we are talking about? Because I have the 1.306/1.622 Size and the cavity seems plenty large enough for a good dose of OA.

Also curious if anyone has tried these:
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I think that the mocaps did not fit a smaller vessel, as you know they fit 1 1/4” coupling. I buy the CAPlugs Hup8-04 and use 1 1/4” couplings- fits perfectly and they are shown in my early post.
 

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Do those band heaters have a bottom already attached?

For the Temperature controller: is there a plug and play model we can buy with everything included, so I just have to plug in the band heater to the correct slots?
Unfortunately the answer is no to both questions.
This is why this thread is so long and people are discussing so many aspects to creating these devices.
The controller is actually not that hard to wire up.
The challenging part, at least for me, was creating the bowl and nozzle.
Then the next challenging part is just getting all of the right sizes of various things and making everything come together correctly. I have several wrong size band heaters sitting around and several wrong size cook pot/bowls as well. Wrong size is maybe not the right way to think about it. Lets say they were all part of my learning mode experiments.

So it is not really a "plug and play" type of project.
 

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I think the 1.306/1.622 Size are big enough but I like to chamfer the edge
62061
to make them easier to fill.
 
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