[JWPalmer]

Fight the mite! Build your own band heater vaporizer for around $100 in parts. For those of us that seem to have two left thumbs when it comes to building mechanical devices, consider purchasing a vaporizer from Biermann or RAST.

Please join me in wishing johno well as he refocuses his attention on the bees. ALL THE BEST MY FRIEND.

 

[alfred westlake]

Over the last 2 1/2 years I have produced close to 3000 vaporizers and had hoped to meet the demand, however the the demand has been increasing to the point where it has become impossible for me to get even close to meeting it. I am also rapidly approaching my 77th Birthday and am getting tired of producing these vaporizers and wish to spend more of my time on the interests which I have neglected and so at this time I have decided to discontinue manufacturing vaporizers. Thank you for your support over the years but there comes a time when enough is enough and I just got there.
As soon as I can find some time I will produce some videos as to how I manufacture the parts for my vaporizer and how I put them together, this will also include a parts list and I will also put the STL files for the handle and cover onto Thingiverse so that these parts can be printed by interested beekeepers. Hopefully together we can try to make a dent in the mite population.
Johno

Johno,
Thank you so much for all of this hard work and guidance.
You have made a huge contribution to the Beekeeping Community!

We are all so lucky to have you carry on this conversation and continued experimentation to help guide us all in our efforts here.

 

[alfred westlake]

Btw, I have a 3D printable box/housing that the Mypin PID controller slides into. I have several different tops and bottoms to the box as my design has evolved with strain relief holes, fuse holder holes and on/off switch holes. I can post it on thingiverse if you are interested.

ptwat,
That is excellent.
It would be great if you did Post these to Thingverse. I would be hugely grateful. I have been trying to figure out designing, but the learning curve is getting me.

 

[fredn]

Thank you so much for your awesome product. Completely understand. Would love to see the how to do... especially how to solder the tube and bottom to the heating pot.

 

[Ruggggus]

Johno,
I want to thank you for the great product that you supplied me and many others. I cant speak for them, but it has changed how I keep my bees. The ease at which I can now treat them would not have happened were it not for your efforts (not buying the $500 unit). How many colonies owe thier existance to you? with 3000 easyvaps out there I would assume it is in the thousands because lets face it, making it easier to treat means we treat like we should.

 

[Jbee6000]

Johno you are a class act for sure! All my appreciation and best to you.

I’ve seen lots of great ideas and innovations here, keep sharing everyone.

I’ve included my latest model here that is good for front or back hive treatments. I use Petg on these for the enclosure. My aluminum bar has peek washers to avoid heat transfer to the case. I’m using 300 watt heaters. My outlet tube is 90% copper 10% nickel which makes it quite more rigid than straight copper. The outlet tube temp tests at 370-415 so it vaporizes and OA that collects at tip due to outside temperature.

 

[username00101]

Thanks for sharing. Personally I would have no objection to purchasing a band heater vaporizer from one of the members here.

 

[alfred westlake]

This is my second try at making the cookpot. I used a Benzomatic Map-pro torch and some
Copper-Phosphor brazing. The bottom is a piece of copper tube that I flattened and cut a disc out of and the ground on it till it fit. The main piece is 1-1/4 connector and the nozzle tube is 3/16 Refrigerator tube.

 

[johno]

This is my second try at making the cookpot. I used a Benzomatic Map-pro torch and some
Copper-Phosphor brazing. The bottom is a piece of copper tube that I flattened and cut a disc out of and the ground on it till it fit. The main piece is 1-1/4 connector and the nozzle tube is 3/16 Refrigerator tube.




View attachment 61800 View attachment 61801

Nothing wrong with that.

 

[alfred westlake]

Nothing wrong with that.

So one issue that I am running into is that if I put the nozzle high enough so that it doesn't interfere with the band heater then it is partially covered by the mocap cap. I tried putting it lower but then the band heater won't close/tighten all the way. I suppose that I could have the band heater hang off the bottom a bit and that way accommodate a lower opening for the nozzle. Or I suppose I could cut a notch in the mocap cap. I haven't yet assembled everything so I don't yet know how much of an issue it will be.

 

[Ruggggus]

What bandheater are you employing? apparently it completely encircles the cookpot? I've noticed that some designs have a heater that when fully clamped is still open enough to allow the 3/16 tube to pass through while others have it above the band. Just curious as to which band you settled on.

 

[Spadeapiaries]

So one issue that I am running into is that if I put the nozzle high enough so that it doesn't interfere with the band heater then it is partially covered by the mocap cap. I tried putting it lower but then the band heater won't close/tighten all the way. I suppose that I could have the band heater hang off the bottom a bit and that way accommodate a lower opening for the nozzle. Or I suppose I could cut a notch in the mocap cap. I haven't yet assembled everything so I don't yet know how much of an issue it will be.

I just make my pots a little taller.

 

[johno]

The 1 1/4" couplings I have used are 2" long, so the 3/16" hole for the outlet needs to be 3/32" above the top of the band heater. Also if you do not let the 3/16" outlet protrude into the inside of the coupling the caps are still tapered and you should still the OA vapor to exit the outlet. You can check this by putting some water into the pot setting on the cap and then allow to heat up until the water boils and the steam escapes through the outlet, if the cap blocks the outlet the steam will pop the cap off. The reason I use the system with the outlet coming out opposite the gap in the band heater is because that is the hottest part of the heater and the gap area is the coolest. Now the difference in temperature may not be large but I still want the outlet at the hottest part.

 

[alfred westlake]

The 1 1/4" couplings I have used are 2" long, so the 3/16" hole for the outlet needs to be 3/32" above the top of the band heater. Also if you do not let the 3/16" outlet protrude into the inside of the coupling the caps are still tapered and you should still the OA vapor to exit the outlet. You can check this by putting some water into the pot setting on the cap and then allow to heat up until the water boils and the steam escapes through the outlet, if the cap blocks the outlet the steam will pop the cap off. The reason I use the system with the outlet coming out opposite the gap in the band heater is because that is the hottest part of the heater and the gap area is the coolest. Now the difference in temperature may not be large but I still want the outlet at the hottest part.

So this is how I have planned to set it up so that the gap is opposite the nozzle. I wondered if the taper in the Mocap would allow the vapor out, but have not had a chance to test it. Thanks for that confirmation. Depending on what I get done today I may be able to test today or tomorrow.

Curious how did you make your bottom pieces. I flattened a piece of pipe and then used snips to cut as close as I could and then had to spend a lot of time on the grinder and with a file. Is there a better way? If I wanted to do a lot of these this would be the tedious part I think.


Also I assuming that drilling a hole in the bottom is the best way to mount it, but had thought of braizing a bolt to the bottom so that I kept the bowls integrity. THoughts?

 

[Ruggggus]

I know it's John's thoughts that you are looking for but.... My initial thought to your question was that it would be benifical to keeping the pot clean which is important to keeping it operating at peak performance but then my second thought was that the head of the screw in the center of the pot will keep the sublimating OA running toward the outter walls of the pot where the heat is. I think the screw likely assists the process. So now the thought changes to welding a bolt to the underside but making the bottom domed. HMMMM..worth the added effort????

 

[Ruggggus]

John, what is the silver content of the rod you use? How much silver is enough? Let me re-word that. How much silver makes the weld material flow well enough on the copper?

 

[johno]

John, what is the silver content of the rod you use? How much silver is enough? Let me re-word that. How much silver makes the weld material flow well enough on the copper?

I use the 5% silver rod based on the price as with oxy/acetylene it welds just as well as the 15% however the 15% might be better if you are using map gas.

 

[Ruggggus]

Thank you for the input. I have both but haven't used the oxy/ace for 20+ years. Maybe time to dust it off. I turned the valve to the oxy this morning and to my amazement there was still pressure in the tank, guess I'll go try the acetylene.

Thanks again, without all your experimenting and sharing of it there is no way I would be building these on my own but I definately see the need. I have sent several fellow beeks your way after purchasing my own from you 2 years ago.

There has also been great input from others doing the same so I thank you all. I will continue the tradition of sharing what I've learned when I am sure I know what I'm talking about.

I don't think a better education on OAV is possible than what is available on this site!!!

 

[johno]

I use the 5% silver rod based on the price as with oxy/acetylene it welds just as well as the 15% however the 15% might be better if you are using map gas.

I started off cutting 1" copper pipe into pieces then flattening it but that got old very quickly. I now buy 18 gauge by 1 1/2" copper discs from Metal Remnants. I use a 1/4" by 1" pan head screw with 2 fender washers the first to clamp the TC to the bottom of the bowl then 2 lockwashers and then another fender washer then locked down with a 1/4" nut. I finish off the insulation by pulling the 5/16" grapho glass in between those 2 fender washers. Welding a bolt onto the bottom will just add stress to the bottom and failures there create more of a problem, the pan head screw is easy and easily replaceable if problems arise. When tightening this screw the philips bit is held in a visegrip then the screw is added followed by the TC and then the first fender washer then the 2 lockwashers then the second fender washer then the nut is screwed down tight with a nut driver and then the nut is really tightened with a wrench.

 

[johno]

Thank you for the input. I have both but haven't used the oxy/ace for 20+ years. Maybe time to dust it off. I turned the valve to the oxy this morning and to my amazement there was still pressure in the tank, guess I'll go try the acetylene.

Thanks again, without all your experimenting and sharing of it there is no way I would be building these on my own but I definately see the need. I have sent several fellow beeks your way after purchasing my own from you 2 years ago.

There has also been great input from others doing the same so I thank you all. I will continue the tradition of sharing what I've learned when I am sure I know what I'm talking about.

I don't think a better education on OAV is possible than what is available on this site!!!

To add to this I also stand the bottom on a dry brick then put on the coupling with the nozzle attached, heat up the inside to the bottom until the bottom glows red then move the flame to the lower edge on the outside and use the rod from the inside moving the rod with the heat until the bottom is done. then thenozzle is welded to the coupling using the tip of the flame to get a good fillet aroud the 3/16" pipe then it goes into a bucket of water. any weld material under the 3/16" pipe is ground off so that the heater can sit right up against the pipe.