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Discussion Starter #981
One of the users of my vaporizer recently had some problems with the cap popping off when vaporizing and asked what the problem could be. I went through the normal problems like blocked nozzle or dirty nozzle and went through the cleaning methods and then asked him to let me know how he got on with his treating. He came back to me with some interesting observations, he was using Florida labs OA as I had advised and he was helping out a friend with treatments and was using the friends OA supplied by a bee company which was stated to be 97% pure OA and this was where the problem was occurring. When he swopped over to the stuff from Florida labs which is 99.6% pure OA the problem went away. Now through the entire development of my vaporizers dating back to 2017 the only OA that I have ever used has been from Florida labs. So at the end of it all beware as all OA is not the same.
 

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I have had the same experience with Mann Lake wood bleach crystals. After 100 treatments or so I couldn't keep the caps on.
I ended up using a set of torch tip cleaners and very carefully cleaning the delivery tube. At the elbow is where mine was plugged.
I too now only use Florida Labs.
 

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I just built a down and dirty backup unit while I'm waiting for parts for a more sophisticated unit. DSCN7631.jpg DSCN7625.jpg
 

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Soldered connections are iffy at the best. They may hold, depending on the temperature set, but welded is better.
 

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Soldered connections are iffy at the best. They may hold, depending on the temperature set, but welded is better.
If you're talking to me, they are brazed with 1300-1500 degree F rod. I got into making my own after the MK350 terminator vaporizer I bought fell apart because they use 400 degree F solder.
 

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For those who are installing the discharge tube towards the bottom of the bowl and curving the tube up inside the bowl could you describe your set up or possibly post a couple of pictures? I am getting ready to build a new bowl and would like to try that style.

Thanks,
 

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For those who are installing the discharge tube towards the bottom of the bowl and curving the tube up inside the bowl could you describe your set up or possibly post a couple of pictures? I am getting ready to build a new bowl and would like to try that style.

Thanks,
Try to have that vertical riser in firm contact with the side of the bowl which is where the max heat input is. Easy to eye dropper in some water and small stainless steel cable into a preheated unit for cleaning. Water dropped into hot tube thermal shocks the scale. That small stainless steel cable snakes through end to end: Probably could even be chucked in a drill. Forget about the wimpy pipe cleaners!

Apparently some brands of OA have differing amounts of trace elements that are more or less prone to causing build up in discharge tube. Good to keep regular cleaning in mind when you design or build heaters.
 

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Greetings,

I’m getting a bit of OA collecting at the end of the discharge tube, but no internal plugging. I’m running a bottom tube along the inside of bowl, 1 3/8” measuring from the bottom of the inside copper bowl. I’ve tested 3/16” and 1/4” tubing, same result. I tested my temp set point at 220c to 250c on the mypin controller, no change in result. Tested both band heaters I have, 250 watt and 380 watt, same result, just the 380 watt heats and recovers faster. I’m starting to think it’s the wood bleach from the local store. I’ve ordered the 99.6% pure OA and waiting to receive so I can test. I’ve also tested my bowl heating temps with an infrared thermometer.

Any other suggestions would be appreciated?

Thanks much!
 

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I keep a small propane torch on hand to quickly clear any residue. Heat the tube and poof vapor.
 

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Two different deposits. Some recrystallyized OA is one thing and as spadeapiaries says easily poofed away with heat. The other does not disappear with heat; may be some kind of ferrous compound (speculation). Iron is often listed as a tramp component of Oxalic Acid. Some user complaints seem to be the latter issue.
 

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Thanks, good tip. It’s not clogging and drops off with a small tap. I was wondering if this is normal? It’s my first time using OA to treat. The above seems to happen with only 1/2 teaspoon of OA vs. 1/4 teaspoon when I’m treating my single brood hives.
 

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Two different deposits. Some recrystallyized OA is one thing and as spadeapiaries says easily poofed away with heat. The other does not disappear with heat; may be some kind of ferrous compound (speculation). Iron is often listed as a tramp component of Oxalic Acid. Some user complaints seem to be the latter issue.
I'm using FDC 99.6% PURE OXALIC ACID Powder and have had good luck so far. Everything seems to poof away with heat.
 

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Greetings everyone,

I tested with 99.6% OA and still get a bit of OA collection on the tip at the end of the vapor cycle. What’s interesting is the amount of OA that collects is much less on additional tests, so I’m wondering if the bowl temp is a lot lower on the first cycle vs the set team. Any recommendations would be appreciated.

Thanks -j
 

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I turn mine on to warm up while I fill caps and install entrance blocks. Have not noticed any buildup. I do notice that the bowl temperature overshoots the set temperature more after a discharge than on the initial preheat. Maybe try a bit longer preheat if you have not already.
 

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I'm diving in head first. The hardest part so far has been the long wait for parts, and in some cases finding out they are the wrong parts and starting over.

I couldn't afford the $500.00 vaporizer so I'm spending $1,000.00 to make my own!? :)

https://youtu.be/JOpa-3Ec3PA
 

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Discussion Starter #999
Spade, I think a lot of your research is about 2 years behind the curve.
 

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Spade, I think a lot of your research is about 2 years behind the curve.
Enlighten me. Some guys say this and some guys say that, heat sink, no heat sink, 3/16", 1/4", 250W, 380W, copper pipe, steel pipe, inside, outside, and on and on. I haven't found where everyone came together around just one design?
 
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