Not I sure how much this will help but... I'm in Texas which gets pretty hot, not AZ hot, but hot. As long as you buy from a local apiary I would think they would be well suited for your climate.
Arizona (HOT!) Specific Newbee Questions
Hello,
I am researching how to keep bees in Arizona (Phoenix area) and need a few questions answered before I start:
1) Hive Configuration - I am considering using only medium hive bodies and suppers as this would standardize my equipment and make frame exchanges easier between boxes. Is there any advice you might give or why this would be a bad idea and should stick with the standard deeps for the brood chambers?
2) Heat Considerations - temps can be too hot. Do you have any advice on how to keep hives cool? Is this even a concern? I know bees will regulate their hive temp and giving them access to a reliable source of fresh water will be critical. I plan to keep my hives mostly shaded during the day but will this be a concern in the winter months? Can you recommend package/nuk breeders who have developed a good bee line for very warm temps?
3) Africanized Bee Concerns - I know we have this "problem" in Arizona. Any advice on how to keep your hive dosile? If a hive does turn too aggressive, is re-queening a viable option to turn it back again? I am very concerned about this as I plan to keep a couple of hives on my property in a sub-division with lots of neighbors. I do not want an aggressive hive that has the potential to seriously harm or injure anyone or their pets.
Any advice you can give would be very helpful. Thank you!!!
I am researching how to keep bees in Arizona (Phoenix area) and need a few questions answered before I start:
1) Hive Configuration - I am considering using only medium hive bodies and suppers as this would standardize my equipment and make frame exchanges easier between boxes. Is there any advice you might give or why this would be a bad idea and should stick with the standard deeps for the brood chambers?
2) Heat Considerations - temps can be too hot. Do you have any advice on how to keep hives cool? Is this even a concern? I know bees will regulate their hive temp and giving them access to a reliable source of fresh water will be critical. I plan to keep my hives mostly shaded during the day but will this be a concern in the winter months? Can you recommend package/nuk breeders who have developed a good bee line for very warm temps?
3) Africanized Bee Concerns - I know we have this "problem" in Arizona. Any advice on how to keep your hive dosile? If a hive does turn too aggressive, is re-queening a viable option to turn it back again? I am very concerned about this as I plan to keep a couple of hives on my property in a sub-division with lots of neighbors. I do not want an aggressive hive that has the potential to seriously harm or injure anyone or their pets.
Any advice you can give would be very helpful. Thank you!!!
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
>1) Hive Configuration - I am considering using only medium hive bodies and suppers as this would standardize my equipment and make frame exchanges easier between boxes. Is there any advice you might give or why this would be a bad idea and should stick with the standard deeps for the brood chambers?
Pros and cons here:
http://www.bushfarms.com/beeslazy.htm#lighterboxes
> 2) Heat Considerations - temps can be too hot. Do you have any advice on how to keep hives cool?
Here I would go for full sun. There I'd go for afternoon shade...
>Is this even a concern? I know bees will regulate their hive temp and giving them access to a reliable source of fresh water will be critical.
I've seen a lot of hives in AZ in full sun. They have to have water.
> I plan to keep my hives mostly shaded during the day but will this be a concern in the winter months?
I doubt your winters will be an issue...
> 3) Africanized Bee Concerns - I know we have this "problem" in Arizona. Any advice on how to keep your hive dosile?
Don't hesitate to requeen hives that are mean. Space the hives out so one hive getting aroused doesn't arouse the one next to it.
> If a hive does turn too aggressive, is re-queening a viable option to turn it back again?
I would plan to have your own to avoid the F1 cross effect which can make them outright viscious.
>I am very concerned about this as I plan to keep a couple of hives on my property in a sub-division with lots of neighbors. I do not want an aggressive hive that has the potential to seriously harm or injure anyone or their pets.
I think you also need an exit plan. If the hive gets mean, you should have a place lined up to take it to. Close it up immediately and haul it off to that place if you think that is appropriate. Then requeen. It's not fair to the neighbors (nor to beekeeping in general) to have bees chasing people down the street.
Pros and cons here:
http://www.bushfarms.com/beeslazy.htm#lighterboxes
> 2) Heat Considerations - temps can be too hot. Do you have any advice on how to keep hives cool?
Here I would go for full sun. There I'd go for afternoon shade...
>Is this even a concern? I know bees will regulate their hive temp and giving them access to a reliable source of fresh water will be critical.
I've seen a lot of hives in AZ in full sun. They have to have water.
> I plan to keep my hives mostly shaded during the day but will this be a concern in the winter months?
I doubt your winters will be an issue...
> 3) Africanized Bee Concerns - I know we have this "problem" in Arizona. Any advice on how to keep your hive dosile?
Don't hesitate to requeen hives that are mean. Space the hives out so one hive getting aroused doesn't arouse the one next to it.
> If a hive does turn too aggressive, is re-queening a viable option to turn it back again?
I would plan to have your own to avoid the F1 cross effect which can make them outright viscious.
>I am very concerned about this as I plan to keep a couple of hives on my property in a sub-division with lots of neighbors. I do not want an aggressive hive that has the potential to seriously harm or injure anyone or their pets.
I think you also need an exit plan. If the hive gets mean, you should have a place lined up to take it to. Close it up immediately and haul it off to that place if you think that is appropriate. Then requeen. It's not fair to the neighbors (nor to beekeeping in general) to have bees chasing people down the street.
>1)
Pros and cons here:
http://www.bushfarms.com/beeslazy.htm#lighterboxes
...
I think you also need an exit plan. If the hive gets mean, you should have a place lined up to take it to. Close it up immediately and haul it off to that place if you think that is appropriate. Then requeen. It's not fair to the neighbors (nor to beekeeping in general) to have bees chasing people down the street.
Thank you Michael! In fact, it was your article linked above that caused me to rethink my set-up and want to all mediums. I'm "young" enough that I think I'll start with the 10 frame mediums. I also am grateful for your suggestion of an "exit plan". Very helpful. I am excited to get started and will be starting box construction later in August.
I am still having a hard time finding any local bee suppliers that will sell packages/nuks. I'll be attending the next Beekeepers Association of Central Arizona meeting (www.azbaca.org) later in September and hopefully I can locate a supplier through them or perhaps, arrange a split with another association member...
Thanks for your advice!
It's eaiser follow Mr. Bush's recommendation now, than it is later, which is what I'm doing. The ONLY drawback is to house the same amount of comb, it takes more hive bodies/supers when using mediums, so it costs a little more per hive. I was on hive #6 when I grabbed my first deep full of honey at chest height. I still uses those deeps as my bottom broad chamber, at least till I get around to replacing them all... buy everything Medium and you can moved any frame to any body. Buy all med nucs as well.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Michael, can you expand on this? I am also in a AHB area with two new hives this past spring - so far they are easy to work, but I am making sure I have a plan in place if things get ugly (the intro books I have don't really talk about that).> 3) Africanized Bee Concerns - I know we have this "problem" in Arizona. Any advice on how to keep your hive dosile?
Don't hesitate to requeen hives that are mean. Space the hives out so one hive getting aroused doesn't arouse the one next to it.
> If a hive does turn too aggressive, is re-queening a viable option to turn it back again?
I would plan to have your own to avoid the F1 cross effect which can make them outright vicious.
How far apart would you place hives to avoid one mean hive ticking off another?
Wouldn't any queens that we raise of our own be an F1 cross? AHB drone mates with purchased or daughter of purchased queen?
Thanks!
Egoettl, hope its ok to jump in on your thread.
>Michael, can you expand on this? I am also in a AHB area with two new hives this past spring - so far they are easy to work, but I am making sure I have a plan in place if things get ugly (the intro books I have don't really talk about that).
> How far apart would you place hives to avoid one mean hive ticking off another?
I don't have an issue with it so mine are touching. It's hard to say how far as it depends on how hot the bees are. But four or five feet will probably help. I know people with AHB and they will work a hive at one end of the yard, and then go to the other end of the yard so that end can calm down. Also I think smoke in the air helps with this. Not just in the hive, but in the air.
>Wouldn't any queens that we raise of our own be an F1 cross? AHB drone mates with purchased or daughter of purchased queen?
That depends on what you start with, but if you only raise your own from now on, then pretty much after the first generation none will be an F1 cross. If you start with local swarms and cutouts then you already have whatever the local bees are and you can select for gentle from there.
> How far apart would you place hives to avoid one mean hive ticking off another?
I don't have an issue with it so mine are touching. It's hard to say how far as it depends on how hot the bees are. But four or five feet will probably help. I know people with AHB and they will work a hive at one end of the yard, and then go to the other end of the yard so that end can calm down. Also I think smoke in the air helps with this. Not just in the hive, but in the air.
>Wouldn't any queens that we raise of our own be an F1 cross? AHB drone mates with purchased or daughter of purchased queen?
That depends on what you start with, but if you only raise your own from now on, then pretty much after the first generation none will be an F1 cross. If you start with local swarms and cutouts then you already have whatever the local bees are and you can select for gentle from there.
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
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