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I need to treat soon and have some apiguard on the way. From the instructions it sounds like if you have two deeps you are supposed to put the apiguard between the deeps instead of on top. Is that right? I don't have spacer, all I have is a medium box, which I suppose would work if on top, but I think if I put it in between the two deeps they will muck it up.

Another question, one of my hives has a high mite count, but the other is still low. Should I treat them both anyway? Or just treat the only one with a mite count exceeding the threshold.
 

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Aylett, VA 10-frame double deep Langstroth
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Can't help with the Apiguard question, but you should treat your apiary as a unit. If one hive tests high, all hives should be treated. I was just having this same conversation with our state apiarist while he was here sampling hives as part of the USDA Honey Bee Pests and Disease Survey.
 

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If one hive tests high, all hives should be treated. I was just having this same conversation with our state apiarist while he was here sampling hives as part of the USDA Honey Bee Pests and Disease Survey.
Great info, thanks
 

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Shims are easy to make. I have even used junk boxes cut the junk off. And then at every finger joint. One deep can make 4/5 shims
 

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Shims are easy to make. I have even used junk boxes cut the junk off. And then at every finger joint. One deep can make 4/5 shims
I guess I may do that. Based on how the product works (carry it down to the entrance while it sublimes), it seems like putting it at the top of both boxes would actually work better than their instructions. Also, I am worried about bees mucking up the gap that is now created between the two deeps.
 

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Shims don't have to be difficult or terribly strong. If you don't have woodworking equipment (except for a hand saw) you could use 1x stock and just glued butt joints. That's what I did. I did use a finish nail at each joint after the glue set up, just for a little extra strength.
 

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Apiguard contains thymol, a respiratory system irritant. You must wear a gas mask while working with it and stay away from the hives for a few days after putting it. Learned this hard way
 

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I have used apiguard on and off for years. I put it immediately above brood frames. I have many double and a few triple deep hives. I do an inspection and wherever I find the highest frames of brood….that’s where it goes.
I’ve never heard of using a gas mask. You do want to wear gloves…your beekeeping gloves should suffice. If you get it on your hands and touch any sensitive areas…nose, eyes or whatever it can be extremely irritating.
 

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The instructions for apiguard years ago said to place the product on the topbars of the top hive. It was pointed out by a Randy Oliver Scientificbeekeeping.com study that this allowed the bees to wall off the product and just leave it in place rendering it ineffective. Since I failed to read the directions, I split my hive bodies and put it in the middle and it worked fine. After reading Mr Olivers study I started putting it on top with a feeder rim on top providing enough space the bees cannot contain the stench but must remove it. I would not be afraid to put it between deeps as situationally I still do that and it works fine. I would definately use it on both colonies. No mite count is always better than low mite count and drift happens between closely spaced hives constantly. Happy to see you monitor your mite level and know what you are dealing with.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Apiguard contains thymol, a respiratory system irritant. You must wear a gas mask while working with it and stay away from the hives for a few days after putting it. Learned this hard way
This does not seem right, or perhaps we are talking about two different things. See the link here: https://www.vita-europe.com/beehealth/products/apiguard/ In the video, the person does not wear a mask nor does he use gloves. (I will use gloves though).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The instructions for apiguard years ago said to place the product on the topbars of the top hive. It was pointed out by a Randy Oliver Scientificbeekeeping.com study that this allowed the bees to wall off the product and just leave it in place rendering it ineffective. Since I failed to read the directions, I split my hive bodies and put it in the middle and it worked fine. After reading Mr Olivers study I started putting it on top with a feeder rim on top providing enough space the bees cannot contain the stench but must remove it. I would not be afraid to put it between deeps as situationally I still do that and it works fine. I would definately use it on both colonies. No mite count is always better than low mite count and drift happens between closely spaced hives constantly. Happy to see you monitor your mite level and know what you are dealing with.
I would prefer to put it on the top rather than in between. So if that works for you that is good to hear. They are currently recommending to put it in between: https://www.vita-europe.com/beehealth/wp-content/uploads/Apiguard-FAQ-08-2020.pdf

Most bees, brood and varroa will usually be in the lower brood chamber, so place the Apiguard on top of the brood frames of the lower chamber and put the second brood chamber on top (so that the Apiguard is between the two brood boxes).
 

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Yes I used the 3 kg tub that comes with a syringe that did not work. I put it on 30 hives.
I'll be finishing my second tub next week. No problems.
 

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The instructions for apiguard years ago said to place the product on the topbars of the top hive
The instructions that came with my most recent batch say to place it on the top bars of the brood frames. That’s the way I’ve always applied it and have had good results. I do use shims.
 

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Thymol the active ingredient is heavier than air. So, to me, it makes sense to put it on top of the brood chamber.
 

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I started by putting it in the middle, and ended up with lots of burr comb in the shim. Not an easy mess to clean up.
I checked with some friends that use Apiguard, and they all put it on top. I then posted the question to this group, and I was pointed to Randy's page that suggested the top was fine.
 

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I started by putting it in the middle, and ended up with lots of burr comb in the shim. Not an easy mess to clean up.
Proof again that all beekeeping is local. This time of year, here, burr comb isn’t an issue. We don’t have anything that could even be remotely called a fall flow. On the other hand, I would definitely not use Apiguard with a shim in spring.
Also, as long as we are using Randy Oliver as a reference, he indicated that he applies his second Apiguard treatment 10 days after the first. I agree with this…and that is the timing I use.
 

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I'll be finishing my second tub next week. No problems.
Different people react to chemicals in different ways. Some people are allergic to bee venom, some don't. Tell some one with allergic to peanut "I eat it all the time. I see no problems"
 

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Different people react to chemicals in different ways.
What, in the name of heaven, did my comment have to do with people's reaction to chemicals?
I was replying to your statement that your syringe didn't work and that mine worked fine.
The tubs used to come with a scoop and spatula. I still have some that I keep for times that the apiguard gets contaminated with debris and clog up the syringes but otherwise the syringes and pretty convenient.
Just my opinion.
 
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