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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
MDO= Medium Density Overlay, AKA "Sign board". Hi All. I confess that my question is about a home project, not beekeeping. Hope I am not stretching the rules too much and maybe it will give me an idea for equipment? Anyway, I need to rebuild an exterior attic door on my garage which is now your typical barn type door made of T&G pine. Over the years, it has warped to the point where I need to replace it. My objectives are: No more warping, no more painting, long-lasting. I am thinking of using exterior MDO as the door "slab", attaching 1/8" pvc "beadboard" on exterior side and attaching pvc trim on exterior to dress it up to look like a traditional barn door. H is 6'8" x W 5'. Attached by iron strap hinges.
Anyone have experience with MDO? Opinions on exterior use? Stability?
I have a concern with screws holding. Perhaps attach 1x or 2x pine to the back (interior) for more meat?
The edges concern me. Can I just paint, or band them with pvc?

I am not stuck on MDO and am considering exterior ply covered by the pvc "bead board" but am told the MDO is more stable. Thanks for your opinions/ideas. J
 

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Great stuff. When I can pick it up in the close out bin. I buy it. I like it for making nuc boxes. Other wise at about $70 per sheet
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes, its very expensive. Where do you get it in a close out bin? HD? What do you do with the edges? Thanks. J
 

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We have a specialty Plywood company here in Toledo. That when I drive by I swing in and look in. Seeing it’s out side and take 30 seconds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Toledo is a little far, so I will have to bite the bullet and buy full sheets. Thanks for the info. Think I will go for the MDO. J
 

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I’m thinking about making some migratory covers out of mdo or hdo. I can get mdo for $40 per sheet and hdo for $60 locally. Advantech is $35 per sheet. Both the mdo and hdo are pretreated with a release agent oil. I assume this is normal for these products I assume it needs to be washed off somehow??
 

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In my experience, nothing beats good old fashioned hard wood. White oak for barn building is best. Look at the old barns, some over a hundred years old and older. Most never painted or maintained well at all. It will go away as anything with time. As for bee boxes, ect. That's a personal choice. Good maintenance on any outdoor equipment that's built to last in the first place is always best. These no maintenance products are like anything else. No maintenance and it won't last. Not sure about the weight of these products, some seem very heavy, and I just like real wood myself. Its all about personal preference,
And trying new things. Rich
 

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I just did a project for a client using MDO...it's very nice from a surface standpoint. Do note that there are two grades...one is a little more expensive, but there's no telegraphing of the underlying wood layer through the paper cap. MDO is rated for exterior use, but you MUST fully seal all the edges. It's still plywood and despite it being mashed together with exterior rated adhesives, direct moisture exposure on the edges will cause damage over time. No surprise there. Banding with PVC will help with this and certainly make for a much nicer edge, but sealing the wood edges first before it's application will increase life for sure. As to screw holding...it's plywood. If you use the correct type of screws, it will perform the same as any other plywood appropriate for the application.

And yea...MDO is going to be light years more stable than PVC or similar. The latter can have substantial expansion/contraction in all directions based on temperature.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks Jim. Any suggestions for sealing the edges before banding? Perhaps epoxy? I am familiar with PVC expansion and contraction issues. Rich, I prefer real wood too and have tried to keep my 1790 house as historically "accurate" as possible with some exceptions made for the future when I am unable to keep maintaining it. Reality setting in. J
 

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When I need to seal something, I've been reaching for a product called Z-Poxy finishing resin. It's a very thin formulation and can get into the edges nicely. It sands well, too, so you can have a nice clean surface for either your PVC caps or primer and then paint.
 

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Hi five j !!! You live in 1790s home. Wow, send me some pics, as I'm a general contractor, im into old architecture. I specialize in repairs and custom painting these days, as time has shot thr body a bit..lol. thanks, rich
 

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Oldest portion of our home dates to 1750, is constructed from limestone, and was apparently part of a huge estate deeded by William Penn to a wealthy local family after he, um...appropriated...the land from the natives. :) Or so the story goes...
 
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