Beesource Beekeeping Forums banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,796 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi folks,

I've read several threads in the archives about using narrow crown staples for frames and I'm getting ready to take the plunge. However, I noted in the archives that frequently people talk of using a 1 1/8" staple for frames. The inexpensive compressor / stapler combo kits I've seen handle a max 1" staple. Does that 1/8" make that much of a difference?

I've got about 400 frames to put together and I'm tired of hand nailing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
we got one for $30 from Harbor Freight that will drive up to 2" staples and brads. The brads are real useful for trim and baseboards and assembling crafts. Longer staples are prob'ly good for covers and bottom boards. Fingers are crossed but so far it is working great. Uses very little air, but likes 90psi for longer fasteners.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,473 Posts
I think the 1&1/8 is just a common length with a 1/8 crown. Just remember that the vertical staples through the top bar have almost no strength, no matter the size. You must either glue or side staple through the end bar in to the top bar. Otherwise your frames will pull apart.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
I've always used a Porter Cable narrow crown stapler to assemble my frames and it works great. I use 1 1/4" on the top and 1" on the bottom bar. I always glue and have never had one come apart. I think the PC stapler is about $120 also. I do staple through the end bar into the top bar.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,533 Posts
I use the 20 buck special from Harbor Freight and I use 3/4" staples on frames never glue, glue and 1" staples is for boxes
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,290 Posts
One thing to consider when using narrow crown to make frames.

Each staple embeds the crown into the frame. Makes a groove. Two staples make two grooves...nearly all the way across the top bar. This weakens the top bar. It's like trying to break a stick. Won't break easily until you nick it with a knife. The stick breaks easily at the nicked spot. Same with lugs on top bar. They break at the spot where the staples are.

Better to use one staple and glue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
134 Posts
I bought a narrow crown stapler and a brad driver (both Dewalt) for great prices from Amazon. They've worked flawlessly for two years and hundreds of frames. To take advantage of their speed you must use a jig. I also glue and horizontal brad. Overkill maybe but makes for the strongest possible connections. By glueing you compensate for weakening the top bar when stapleing.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,533 Posts
Each staple embeds the crown into the frame. Makes a groove. Two staples make two grooves...nearly all the way across the top bar.
I never staple the top of the top bar just through the end bars and as over kill I staple through the side of the end bar.
 

·
Vendor
Local feral survivors in eight frame medium boxes.
Joined
·
53,990 Posts
Mine takes from 1/2" to 1 1/2" staples. I use the 1 1/2" for boxes. The 1" for frames. The 1/2" for putting screen wire on. The 1 1/4" for cleats etc. where I don't want to poke through two one bys. When I run out of 1" for the frames I sometimes use the 1 1/4".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,789 Posts
I have a Bostitch. Works fine. My biggest complaint is that standard narrow (1/4in) crown staples won't work in it. It requires 7/32in crown staples. Guess who is the only manufacturer of those?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
575 Posts
I use a brad nailer that takes max 1 inch staples (1-1/8" brads) for 5-3/8" cut comb super frames. I glue when I remember or feel like it. I've had hand nailed frames come apart, but no air stapled ones. After a while, the girls add enough propolis that appears as good as glue.

I got a Craftsman 1 gallon oil free compressor and brad nailer kit as a close-out for less than $100 and refills are easy to get. It's so small and light weight I can sit in the family room with the TV and assemble all night.

I use a Stanley hand staple gun for the wedges. The hand gun is much easier on the slender wedges and pull/push out easily when prepping for next year.

After nails, brads and screws, this is the only way I'll do it.

I use Pierco for the brood chambers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
575 Posts
Guys, I just came from Home Depot where they have a Husky 2 gal compressor kit with brad nailer and accessories for $70.00 bucks. I'm sure the pros will wear it out the first year, but at that price its cheaper than taking turns.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,274 Posts
The brad nailers are worthless for bee equipment of any type. Use staplers! When buying staples look for adhesive coated staples; Bostich does not coat theirs but some of the "generic" brands at HD and Lowe's do have a coating. The adhesive melts from friction as the staple is driven and helps the holding power. :)
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top