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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I had a bunch of comb from some cutouts, I seperated out all the light color stuff in put it in the solar melter, I just built. The instructions say to use a coarse screen. I used some #8 hardware cloth, I got about 3 pounds of pale yellow wax. What is the next step in cleaning this wax, as I have no doubt that the #8 cloth let in a bit of larva?

Also should I do anything different with the dark wax I'm gonna do next, or will the sun bleach it and I'm just wasting my time seperating?

I can post a pic of the melter if anyone is intrested, I got some scrap sheets of 1" thick black rubber foam, and lined it with that. I tested it for a short period with a thermometer and it was over 200 degrees!
 

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Guys at work just gave me a new double pane window to build one. Would love to see a photo of yours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Here are a few pics, the block of wax is about 2-3 pounds, my first use. I was suprising that the slumgum that was left on the pan was burnt on like it had been in a very hot oven.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
For some reason, I can't get them to resize, so these my click to a large pic, thats why I'm putting the thumbnail.



 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
so if I want to buy some 60-100 mesh cloth, where might I look. What else it is used for, and might I have any laying around?
 

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As a beeswax candle maker, I don't want my wax to be more than 160 to 165 degrees especially for an extended period of time.

If your wax temperature reaches 200*, you are ruining it in my opinion.
 

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I don't use the filter screen that some say to use in a solar melter. I left the drain hole open above my container. I use thin fabric (old threadbare tee shirts) and put my unmelted wax in it (lay the fabric down, put your wax on it and fold the lower part of the fabric up over some of the wax so the melted wax goes through the fabric). Wax and honey will go through but none of the black stuff. It is completely clean.

If I melt a lot of dirty wax, I have to change the fabric every few weeks. Basically it does soak up a little wax, but after it has done that the wax just flows through and is completely clean. If you have a lot of honey in your wax (sometimes you will get pockets of honey in your melted wax block), put the wax in a container with water in the melter and let it sit (not re-melt through the drain). The wax and honey will separate.

When your fabric is dirty and you want to replace it, go down when the melter is warm but not hot and roll the fabric up. Cut it into sections for firestarters for next winter.
 

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The flashpoint of beeswax is 200F, It can burst into flame at that point. Bee careful.

As a beeswax candle maker, I don't want my wax to be more than 160 to 165 degrees especially for an extended period of time.

If your wax temperature reaches 200*, you are ruining it in my opinion.
 

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Actually I meant to say that wax temperatures of more than 180* tend to ruin the wax. Didn't know the flashpoint, but knew that 200* is getting serious. Good info to know. I closely monitor my wax temps. It melts at about 145 to 147*. Usually I pour between 155 and 165*

Can't be too careful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The flashpoint of beeswax is 200F, It can burst into flame at that point. Bee careful.
Wiki, shows the flash point at 204.4 C, which is 399.9 F, and that discoloration at 185 F, there is no reported autoignition temperature, so no bursting into flames, but thaks for keeping an eye on safety as I had given no thought to any of this :D
 

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Thanks for the correction. Thats where I got my info, but obviously read the Celsius number instead.
I stand corrected.

Wiki, shows the flash point at 204.4 C, which is 399.9 F, and that discoloration at 185 F, there is no reported autoignition temperature, so no bursting into flames, but thaks for keeping an eye on safety as I had given no thought to any of this :D
 

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The 60 and 100 mesh should be available at most fabric stores. The number refers to the threads per inch. Betterbee also sells it. The wax looks really clean throught the 60, but the 100 will catch really fine stuff that you wouldn't realize is there. I mount mine in a wood hoop used for needle point and it sets on top of the bucket with the pouring pot inside
 

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Just to clarify:

flashpoint is the temp. a substance must be heated to before it will ignite if a heat source (flame or glowing wire) is held above it in a normal air atmosphere. (relates to vapor pressure)

autoignition point is temp. at which it will spontaneously burst into flame without a match being held over it
 

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This place is great, I learn something new all the time here.

Just to clarify:

flashpoint is the temp. a substance must be heated to before it will ignite if a heat source (flame or glowing wire) is held above it in a normal air atmosphere. (relates to vapor pressure)

autoignition point is temp. at which it will spontaneously burst into flame without a match being held over it
 

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When I melt wax in my solar melter, I put a screen on top of the catch pan and lay a piece of cloth or paper towel over that. As the wax drips into the catch pan, it gets filtered.
 
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