Beesource Beekeeping Forums banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,545 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all I am going to be prepping a 30x36 concrete pad. The pad is not in bad shape but it is from the late 70s and I am sure will need cleaned and etched or sanded. I am doing my research now. Any advice on prefered types of sealants or preparation methods would be appreciated.

Thanks,

- Kamon Reynolds
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,085 Posts
I have not had any sealer hold up well on my sidewalks and patio, so I will not recommend one. However, whatever sealer you use, add some shark grip or similar product which will make the floor less slippery. It is made by H&C which makes sealer that I don't like. Maybe their sealer holds up better indoors. J
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
512 Posts
Hey all I am going to be prepping a 30x36 concrete pad. The pad is not in bad shape but it is from the late 70s and I am sure will need cleaned and etched or sanded. I am doing my research now. Any advice on prefered types of sealants or preparation methods would be appreciated.

Thanks,

- Kamon Reynolds
Hi Kamon,

We are getting ready to build a barndominium slab on grade followed later by a honey processing facility/shop. Here are some really good ideas on sealing concrete floors:

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=sealing+concrete+floors+texas+barndominiums

After a really good cleaning & drying the concrete floor to be sealed, a base coat of APF 250 https://www.apfepoxy.com/product-polyurethane-250 followed by a second coat of APF 501 https://www.apfepoxy.com/product-polyurethane-501 seems to be a really good combination.
 

·
Moderator - In Memorium
Aylett, VA 10-frame double deep Langstroth
Joined
·
6,888 Posts
Kamon, I would just Google food grade floor coatings and go from there. Many well known brands have a version for use in food processing facilities, which I believe is what you need/want.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,278 Posts
I am sure will need cleaned and etched or sanded
My brother sells paint, and cleaning the floor extremely well is the key to getting floor paint to work well.

As long as you are not collecting honey off the floor (which you really should not be) I am not sure how important a food grade paint is.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,288 Posts
The top of the floor prep goes from the best is Blast track, then grind, and way on the bottom is acid etched. Most floors get ground and high dollar ones blast track. With two or three coats of epoxy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
My- smokepole is right on. Nothing will stick to concrete that is dirty or oily. You must take it down to clean concrete. As far as I know there is no food grade epoxy. We put it all kinds of plants, food and industrial. Etching only works good on new concrete. You can probably rent a blast track machine. Then again you might be able to get a professional to do it all for you for a reasonable price.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,899 Posts
We sealed our floor with Rustoleum EpoxyShield about 6 years ago and are very happy with it.
The video lays it out very well with one glaring error:
You will NEVER get good preparation with that stupid hand brush that they use.
We went to a local rental store and rented a heavy duty floor machine and bought the most aggressive pads available.
After scrubbing the floor with the de-greaser using the floor machine, suck up the dirty water with a carpet cleaner, rinse the floor with hot water, and then scrub the floor with de-greaser, over and over until the wash water comes off crystal clear and clean.
Plan on spending an entire day running the floor machine and carpet cleaner:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xbXBzQQtOPw
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
978 Posts
Hi kaymon,
Advice from a professional painter here.
Clean floor well with muratic acid, and a concrete etching brush.
Let dry well. 2 days best. Paint 2 coats of epoxy 2 part is best. On second coat, add crushed lava rock. All available at the big box stores. I use a small hand held seed spreader to apply the lava. Also, All my the lava on top of the second coat. Will be almost slip proof under most circumstances. Also, you can put lava mixed into first coat if ya like. Then top dress on the second coat. Just keep the paint stores well. Epoxy is good grade as well. I've put it down in plant floors for years, and dental offices for years. Last forever, and very durable under most any circumstances. Good luck, and you can call me if you like. You've got my number, richard in Bama
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,272 Posts
Rich,
Do you remember what the system was named that used the epoxy for a bonding coat then sand and a clear top coat of epoxy. The sand would pass through window screen. It came in many colors also. We installed it in showers and locker rooms, mostly. It sounds about like what you are describing.
Everything came from the same place, even the structural crack repair epoxy. Now that I have thought about for a minute, I think it was made by Texas Cement.

Alex
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
978 Posts
Hi Alex. I used ppg 2 part epoxy tinted to the color I wanted. The lava works better than sand in a wet or slippery environment. On a clean floor, and muratic acid scrub, shouldn't need a bonding primer. The epoxy is a chemical bond in itself. .
I also use delta polymers Inc products. Epoxies, and they have application custom made systems. Very high end products. The products are military grade, and allot are used in painting battleships, and decks of aircraft carriers ect. They have products for any application thinkable. You should look them up online. Great customer service, and excellent products.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,487 Posts
If you can find an 2 part Epoxy coating where the aggregate is crushed epoxy, get it. It may be called "Monolithic" . When we tore down an old extracting room from the '60s, I could drop a cement block from 8' and not damage the floor.

Crazy Roland
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
I just had my garage floor done by a franchise named garage kings , awesome job and product beautiful check it out and see if there is a local company near you
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Even new concrete should be shot blasted or ground before the epoxy. There are different options for epoxy like water based, amount of solids, etc. Then there are options on topcoat like urethane vs. polyaspartic, etc. I have been very pleased with my epoxy floor in my new shop. There is a ton of information on flooring on Garage Journal forum.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
324 Posts
Epoxy makes a nice durable surface but I wasn't able to use it in my honey house. My floor sweats a little when
the humidity gets high in the summer and was advised not to use epoxy by those who sell it. The moisture coming
up from underneath will cause it to fail. So I just used a high quality floor paint.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,288 Posts
The reason that you want to grind or shot blast a floor is the need for giving the concrete tooth. Witch helps the epoxy grip the concrete. Acid doesn’t do it well enough. Just about a retired painting contractor.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top