After a successful feeding season this Spring, I wanted to share my in-hive feeder design for a TBH. Many of the details were gleaned from various threads in this forum.
To start, the feeder is made from 3/4” boards on the sides and bottom. I used some scrap oak I had laying around, but pine would work just as well. The picture below shows three 2 3/4” (70mm) holes drilled in the bottom. What may not be visible is the #8 hardware cloth in the holes to keep the bees from flying out when the jars are removed. The circular-cut hardware cloth rests on 4 brads nailed into the sides of each hole.
![IMG_2783.JPG]()
The bottom of the feeder is 7 1/2” from the top of the hive body. My TBK is 11 1/2” deep, so this leaves plenty of room for the bees to get the syrup. Note the 1/4” spacers on each side near the top. I left this bee space to avoid propolis build-up...it worked. No propolis on the feeder.
![IMG_2784.JPG]()
This side view also shows the 1/4” spacer. The front and back of the feeder are made from 1/4” Luan plywood. The plywood and spacers are held in place with 1” staples.
In the hive, a 1/4” spacer between the feeder and the separator board provided bee space.
![IMG_2785.JPG]()
Ok, honestly, the lid was a mistake. I originally planned on running the front and back of the feeder all the way up to the top of the hive bars and leave the inside of the feeder exposed. The hive top would keep bees out of the feeder. Turns out that the lid did a good job of keeping stray bees out of the feeder when I opened the hive to examine it. It also makes a convenient closed storage box during the off season.
![IMG_2786.jpg]()
I drilled a bunch of 1/16” holes in the jar lids. No particular pattern.
![IMG_2788.JPG]()
The feeder holds three small mouth quart sized canning jars.
![IMG_2789.JPG]()
The finished project. A couple of 3/4” angled holes in the lid serve as finger holds; stop short of drilling through the board. The package bees consumed 2 1/2 quarts of 1:1 syrup in 2 1/2 weeks.
![IMG_2787.JPG]()
To start, the feeder is made from 3/4” boards on the sides and bottom. I used some scrap oak I had laying around, but pine would work just as well. The picture below shows three 2 3/4” (70mm) holes drilled in the bottom. What may not be visible is the #8 hardware cloth in the holes to keep the bees from flying out when the jars are removed. The circular-cut hardware cloth rests on 4 brads nailed into the sides of each hole.
The bottom of the feeder is 7 1/2” from the top of the hive body. My TBK is 11 1/2” deep, so this leaves plenty of room for the bees to get the syrup. Note the 1/4” spacers on each side near the top. I left this bee space to avoid propolis build-up...it worked. No propolis on the feeder.
This side view also shows the 1/4” spacer. The front and back of the feeder are made from 1/4” Luan plywood. The plywood and spacers are held in place with 1” staples.
In the hive, a 1/4” spacer between the feeder and the separator board provided bee space.
Ok, honestly, the lid was a mistake. I originally planned on running the front and back of the feeder all the way up to the top of the hive bars and leave the inside of the feeder exposed. The hive top would keep bees out of the feeder. Turns out that the lid did a good job of keeping stray bees out of the feeder when I opened the hive to examine it. It also makes a convenient closed storage box during the off season.
I drilled a bunch of 1/16” holes in the jar lids. No particular pattern.
The feeder holds three small mouth quart sized canning jars.
The finished project. A couple of 3/4” angled holes in the lid serve as finger holds; stop short of drilling through the board. The package bees consumed 2 1/2 quarts of 1:1 syrup in 2 1/2 weeks.
