Brooklyn; since cave man days this has been a do-it-yourself item. Buy a 9 frame spacer, make a mark on the next to last prong so that the end exactly matches the other factory end. Grab a hacksaw and go to work! Or, mark it out, take it to a welding shop and ask them to cut it on their bandsaw. While you're at it, make two. The 1st law of beekeeping states that "you will eventually, usually soon, misplace your hive tool, your frame spacer, or both at the same time."
If you have Hoffman frames, they are self-spacing. You can either crowd them together from each side using your hive tool and have a little extra space on the outsides, as many do, or just push the outer ones in a bit so there are no big gaps in the middle, and you're done.
Contrary to what many beginners think, the spacing is not especially critical as long as there is no big gap in the middle. Commercial beekeepers run a variety of spacings and as far as I could ever tell, there is little, if any effect on the bees.
If you do crowd the frames, that reduces the gumming up of the end bars and makes the most compact brood chamber. If you don't, though, it does not really matter. Many do not.
The bees will likely fatten the outside frames a bit if the middle ones are crowded together and you don't super on time, but otherwise that outer space stays open and is useful so that you have room to work. Then you can slide the frames over to the side and lift middle frames without "rolling" a queen.
If you have straight end bar frames, though, you will need either the nail-in spacers or a hand spacer unless you are willing to hand-space them. Frankly, that is not a huge hassle and quite a few beekeepers do just that.
here's a simple and cost effective method:
Place the 9 frames in the 10 frame super and rock it back and forth a few times, super the hive, and walk away.
You can do the same with your hive body.
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