7 5/8 supers

4445 Views 16 Replies 12 Participants Last post by wbee, Apr 3, 2014

r hayden

Discussion Starter · Mar 26, 2014

Hi all.
I was given three 7 5/8" supers and thirty corresponding 7 1/4" frames, no foundation. All of the supers I already have are one inch shorter, mediums.
When I start to use the larger supers/frames can I just put in a drawn 6 1/4" frame for the bees to use as a bridge and guide or should I add a 1" spacer to the bottom?
Thanks for the help.

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

WPG

· #2 · Mar 26, 2014

If you plan to use them as honey supers and foundationless be sure to put them between fully drawn frames on each side and already capped would be better yet.

You can also use them in a deep the same way.

They might build some burr comb on the shorter frames, but not enough to worry about.

Just cut it off when harvesting and have some cut comb honey.

Goodluck

Michael Bush

· #3 · Mar 26, 2014

I would cut them all down.

MaydayMalone

· #4 · Mar 26, 2014

The only place that I know of that even deals with 7 5/8 anymore is Mann Lake. The founder of Mann Lake told me it was from the old width cuts of lumber.

DPBsbees

· #5 · Mar 26, 2014

You could also cut down deep foundation to fit the frames.

laketrout

· #6 · Mar 26, 2014 (Edited)

The extra inch isn't going to help you in any way , its actually going to make problems for you with excess bee space and burr comb if you use 6 1/4 frames in them , why not just cut them down to mediums and keep all of your equipment the same .

r hayden

Discussion Starter · #7 · Mar 26, 2014

I guess now I know why they were given to me!
Maybe I'll put one out as a swarm trap and then use the 3 as brood chambers.
Thanks

stajerc61

· #8 · Mar 27, 2014

Western Bee sells 7 5/8 boxes and frames. I use the boxes for spacers over my one gallon feed buckets.

Vance G

· #9 · Mar 27, 2014

I would put in 6/58" ritecell or permadent and run them or cut them down to 6/5/8. Not a huge deal either way.

laketrout

· #10 · Mar 27, 2014

Do you have access to a table saw , if so set the fence up and slide them through and keep turning the box until your done , just watch where the screws are, you don't want to hit them with the blade. Once your set up its maybe 3 mins. per box . Good luck

JWG

· #11 · Mar 27, 2014

Just wondering -- How popular is this size super (7 5/8), and in what parts of the country? I have also noticed them listed by Western Bee and Mann Lake.

Seems it would be an improvement over the Illinois medium as it gives more comb space, while not being as unwieldy as a standard deep, and would be a more ideal size for anyone wishing to have a single size frame throughout the hives. The increased comb area would be somewhat more useful for brood rearing while not being too heavy for use as honey supers.

Granted it is not one of popular dimensions but kind of a nice intermediate size, in a way. A stack of these would have less frame wood for the bees to cross over, more comb, and not be too heavy for honey storage.

In this part of New England the common honey super many years ago was the 5 11/16 (even Charles Mraz used this small size for the surplus honey) but it appears most people have gone to the Illinois 6 5/8 in general. It is a great size for the honey supers but IMHO still rather small (shallow) for brood rearing, requiring a lot of brood frames to comprise a full brood nest, and resulting in all the interconnections --burr/brace/drone comb -- between the stories, as the bees attempt to make the nest continuous.

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r hayden

Discussion Starter · #12 · Mar 27, 2014

I think I'll just KISS it - keep it simple stupid!
Already have deeps and meds. A third size will just probably cause problems for me in the future.
I'm going to cut down the frames and supers to standard meds, gluing the 1" sections of the super together to make a spacer for fall feeding.

JWG - not sure how popular they are, I've never heard of them before, but look how long I've been doing this..........

Thanks for all the options.

awootton

· #13 · Apr 1, 2014

7 5/8 is a size available in Australia (known as WSP). I believe it was introduced during war shortages of timber by a well known Australian beekeeper (Wyn S Pender). Although most Oz beeks use deeps, this size is readily available. I'm using it and know of at least one other very experienced old timer who is moving towards it - surely this size solves all the argument over deeps vs mediums (see previous forums ad nauseum....!)

shinbone

· #14 · Apr 1, 2014

I already don't like having both deeps and mediums in my apiary. It seems whenever I want to swap frames around I can't because of the size difference. I am slowly phasing out the deeps, but it is not easy. No way would I introduce a third size to my apiary.

JMHO

r hayden

Discussion Starter · #15 · Apr 1, 2014

I trimmed the supers and frames down to mediums over the weekend. I only have deeps and meds now.
I'm with you Shinbone, If the queens keep moving up into the meds. , as they are now, I might be able to remove the deeps come fall (?).
I might only make one all meds to see if I and the bees like it first.

awootton

· #16 · Apr 1, 2014

shinbone said:
I already don't like having both deeps and mediums in my apiary. It seems whenever I want to swap frames around I can't because of the size difference. I am slowly phasing out the deeps, but it is not easy. No way would I introduce a third size to my apiary.

JMHO

Couldn't agree more about wanting only one size. I'm in the fortunate position of starting a new apiary and so can standardise on a single size for brood and supers - I've seen the discussion(dispute?!) about deeps vs mediums and understand both points of view. With a new setup a compromise may achieve the best of both worlds - so I'm voting (with my feet) for the 3/4 size throughout. Time will tell...

wbee

· #17 · Apr 3, 2014

We've been making 7 5/8 equipment forever it seems. Sell a lot down into the south and a few other specific areas. Also sell that size for feeders - particularly into Canada. We even make assembled 7 1/4 frames with Plasticell. Check us out if you need anything.

Rick
Western Bee
www.westernbee.com

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