It is not a reason, it is a feature."Each unit can go up to 12 boxes (before hitting the roof)."
Above probably explains the reason for 6 framers. Working 35 pound supers of honey off of a?step ladder, twelve supers high would be a good workout!
LJ, all good questions.Hi Greg.
I found myself reading an account yesterday of the controversy which developed between Heddon - who favoured a contracted 5-frame broodnest - and Dadant who, in contrast, championed a very large size, so as to maximise the queen's output.
One of Heddon's claims was that pollen (in the form of stored bee-bread) was best left out in the field, so as to maximise both brood and honey production within the hive itself.
I noticed during the Russian 6-frame inspection that all were very impressive brood combs, and other videos display equally impressive honey combs - but I cannot remember seeing much in the way of stored pollen. I'm sure that guy's area must be very rich in pollen, so this may not be an issue for his particular operation, but I've been wondering whether he has had anything specific to say about pollen storage ?
Heddon was the first to invent (what he called) the 'queen-excluding honey board', initially made from strips of wood suitably spaced apart, and which were primarily intended to be placed between the brood box and the supers (which he was using for section honey production). However, it appears that his contracted broodnest provoked swarming, as he took to placing his queen excluder under the brood box as well, in order to confine the queen and thus prevent swarming.
Again, does this Russian guy have anything to say about the issue of swarming, and any steps he takes to avoid this ?
Sorry to burden you Greg, but this system of beekeeping looks to be very attractive indeed, and I can see me incorporating at least some of these ideas into my own operation, and so I'd like to identify any 'negatives' it might have as early as possible, so as to take steps to avoid them (if I can).
The guys has been laughing at lots of comments/questions about this exact issue.Again, does this Russian guy have anything to say about the issue of swarming, and any steps he takes to avoid this ?
Spot on Good links, thanks.LJ, you gonna like these.
Though a 7-framer - already feels a bit heavy as for me.
Maybe a bit over-engineered to my taste.
Yes, over-engineered.Spot on Good links, thanks.
I agree - a tad over-engineered - but still great fun. It's really good to see what other people (and from a different culture) can come up with.
I've noticed that a lot of Russian guys prefer the style of box with 4x battens (2 at each end) projecting downwards - called 'Horns', I think ?
Not seen over here, but I know you like that type of box.
they look fun,, I often wonder why seeley didn't suggest a 5x5X5 format in stead of a 10xsuperLooking ahead, a single-person portable hive is a good option for me - hence the 6-frame peg hive idea.
All these multi-queen setup talks always made me wonder - why the complications?I have been chewing on this a bit.....
thinking about Ian Steppler's 6f nucs pushed together for production with a common super https://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?328731-6F-nucs-for-honey-production
and the effect of a muti queen hive and why they make more honey....
We talk a lot about drift and how to fight it, but I wonder......maby do we have it wrong?
The hives in this thread are mostly pushed tight together.. like one would see in the primitive Yemen hives and Egyptian tube hives where they are in stacks/walls .....
I wonder if we are missing something, an advantage to the stacks.. shared thermal regulation for sure .. but I wonder if drift is happening enuf to create the "muti queen" effect.. maby not as much as a shared super, but I do wonder
they look fun,, I often wonder why seeley didn't suggest a 5x5X5 format in stead of a 10xsuper
for some reason I would have thought you would be attracted to something like a comfort box hive as a alpine type stand in...
fast easy cheap build, manage/harvest by the box, small enuff to pull a harvest the 1st year, highly splitabul, etc
This is why I dumped the Layens' frame from the start - why create an artificial problem for myself (while the bees don't care of a slight difference)........each of the 6 framers have its own bottom. ....
....The Layens frames are not extractor friendly .....
That "peg hive" vertical corner joiner piece makes for simple construction and would also lend itself to using narrower boards. If you weren't concerned with the positive, no slide efffect, you could make the corner piece flush with top and bottoms.
I think I am talking myself into building some 6 frame equipment!
https://www.beesource.com/forums/showthread.php?342014-New-to-bees&p=1770031#post1770031But even if it (GV: SC) doesn't help with varroa, you get longer lived bees:
My short answer - no.At first sight one could imagine that there would be 'shared-warmth' all along the line - but is there ? .
LJ,...Perhaps bottom entrances left exposed, but with a canvas or plastic sheet covering the whole line from the entrance upwards, and strapped down, so as to effectively trap the air within those gaps ?.
But of cource they heat the hive,( If they didn't they won't need a cavity), the hive wall will be warmer then the winter air temp, you can clearly see this in thermal pictures.Granted, the subject of bees "not heating the hive" has been discussed into the blue face.
Of course, IF the bees do not heat their own hive, how can they share any heat with a hive one over?
The residual heat losses from one hive are not enough to ENTER the other hive and heat it.