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I made a couple D Coates nucs yesterday. I didn`t cut the notched entrance in the bottom like the plans say. I was thinking about drilling a hole and using those entrance disks. What do you guys usually do about an entrance and ventilation? I would like to be able to close them up if I need to.
 

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I like to use a gap at the bottom. If you drill a hole you can't get an oav wand In and it makes it difficult to treat for mites.
 

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I view D Coats as a temporary box. I just drill a 3/4 hole. Duck tape,or metal disk to cover. I do both. Besides I don’t like OBS plywood. And i like solid wood on the ends and bottom of the box.
 

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Ok, but even if it is a temporary box, you should still try to take advantage of brood breaks to grab an oav when you can. It's like half the benefit of making nucs in my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Thanks! I will be using these I have as temporary boxes. I will over winter in Palmer style double nucs. I`m going to order some of the disks.
 

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I don't think you would have any problem getting the nozzle of an Easyvap or Provap110 into the hole of an entrance disc.
 

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I use these and like them . I ordered the disks off Ebay. If I have to transport them I strap them and turn the wheel to vent . I wont be building anymore Coates boxes because I really need to double stack when I get busy . Still a good concept though .
What keeps you from double stacking them? Make some that are exactly 9 5/8" tall and don't put bottoms on them. Stack them on regular nuc boxes. I've got at least one of them per nuc box I've got. I overwinter nucs that way. Went into winter with 13 nucs set up that way. When I transport them I do use a sinch strap to make sure the 2 nuc bodies stay together.
 

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What keeps you from double stacking them? Make some that are exactly 9 5/8" tall and don't put bottoms on them. Stack them on regular nuc boxes. I've got at least one of them per nuc box I've got. I overwinter nucs that way. Went into winter with 13 nucs set up that way. When I transport them I do use a sinch strap to make sure the 2 nuc bodies stay together.
I wasn’t criticizing your boxes, I just don’t want to add another piece of wood to the bottom of the top box . Which I have done to make them work or a continuous piece of wood. They work just fine Dan but I use advantech it’s costly when you have to add that extra piece so water doesn’t get in the bottom box .
 

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I drill 3/4" hole for entrance near the bottom, and use the little plastic entrance disc. I also drill a 3/4 whole under the handle on the back and cover from the inside with 1/8" screen. I make all of my Coates nucs out of 1/2" plywood or 7/16" OSB with Advantech tops. The tops have a 70mm feeder whole on toward back for jar feeder. I love these nuc boxes. I've overwintered in these for the last 3 years. They are cheaper and better than cardboard nucs.

I've made several variations of Coates Nucs:
10 Frame deep temp box (2/sheet). These are not the best they tend to warp rather easily, but I still seem to have one on my truck most of the time. where
5 Frame Swarm box 19" deep (3/sheet).
Single 1/3 frame mini mating nucs (17/sheet).
Double 1/3 frame mini mating nucs (10/sheet).

As you can see I like the concept, and use it for cheap quick easy builds.

Thanks to Dan Coates.
 

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I have several of the std Coates nucs and was wondering what the problem would "bee" if you just left the bottom off and built a regular bottom with an 3" x .75" opening to fit the Vap for OA tmts or cut this size hole in your std Coates box?

Realize this is more of a long term use set up vs a swarm or quick split box. I use a slide down door closer and guess you could use it with a smaller hole and open to use the vap? opinions?

If you do this with the independent hive bottom do you really need to trim the 10.25 deep down to standard deep 9 5/8 deep depth?

For the keeper with a few hives would a strip down the top of the hive cover on each side keep the warpage down? Even though it messes with the storage space for larger operations.

Thanks, looking at options for some more boxes. Jim
 

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I have several of the std Coates nucs and was wondering what the problem would "bee" if you just left the bottom off and built a regular bottom with an 3" x .75" opening to fit the Vap for OA tmts or cut this size hole in your std Coates box?

Realize this is more of a long term use set up vs a swarm or quick split box. I use a slide down door closer and guess you could use it with a smaller hole and open to use the vap? opinions?

If you do this with the independent hive bottom do you really need to trim the 10.25 deep down to standard deep 9 5/8 deep depth?

For the keeper with a few hives would a strip down the top of the hive cover on each side keep the warpage down? Even though it messes with the storage space for larger operations.
I build several variants of the Coates Nuc. Some with a 3/8" entrance across so I can use a boardman feeder, and some with 3/4" hole and a hole on the top for a top feeder. You can adjust the plans what ever you need. The beauty of the Coates Nucs is they are cheap and easy to build. I assume to keep them that way. I would cut the hole the size you need for the Vap. You may need to add 1/4" height to the sides to accommodate the VAP.

I haven't been able to control warpage on lids with 1/2" plywood. I switched to using 3/4" Advantech sheathing for my lids. I have some test pieces that have been on hives for 3 years now without paint, and they still look good. Out of 40-50 lids I used this way, I have seen only 1 with a slight warp (it is one of the unpainted ones). It did not warp enough to cause a problem. I'll routinely have 30-40 Coates Nucs in the yard at any one time.

I'm in Alabama, and I can winter in these nucs. Another variation to the plans I do is drill a 3/4" hole one the back side just under the end cap for ventilation. I screen it from the inside, and I winter I will duct tape the vent depending on the weather, and moisture level in the hive.
 

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I have several of the std Coates nucs and was wondering what the problem would "bee" if you just left the bottom off and built a regular bottom with an 3" x .75" opening to fit the Vap for OA tmts or cut this size hole in your std Coates box?

Realize this is more of a long term use set up vs a swarm or quick split box. I use a slide down door closer and guess you could use it with a smaller hole and open to use the vap? opinions?

If you do this with the independent hive bottom do you really need to trim the 10.25 deep down to standard deep 9 5/8 deep depth?

For the keeper with a few hives would a strip down the top of the hive cover on each side keep the warpage down? Even though it messes with the storage space for larger operations.

Thanks, looking at options for some more boxes. Jim
i used a dado blade and set it at 5/8 and chewed away the width i needed for my wand to fit in. Kept the bottoms attached. Sure you could make bottom boards but its just a pain from my experience. easier to just move them without thinking about it. The ones i did make i've since nailed on. Only the bottom space on the second 5 frame nuc matters. If you keep it as designed the bees don't readily move up as the space is too big.
 

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I make separate bases even for NUCs which gives some flexibility relative to entrances and bee-space. Separate bases also make cleanup easier as well as make the NUC boxes "universal". Alison treats NUC stacks the same way as our regular 10-frame medium stacks in how they get built and torn down. OTOH, a fixed base does make the NUC easier to physically move if that's something that's important...

To your specific question, a hole with a circular guard is a perfectly valid method for a lower entrance, especially with a fixed base on the box.
 

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I made a couple D Coates nucs yesterday. I didn`t cut the notched entrance in the bottom like the plans say. I was thinking about drilling a hole and using those entrance disks. What do you guys usually do about an entrance and ventilation? I would like to be able to close them up if I need to.
That is exactly what I do. I drill two 3/4" holes in the back for venilation. I also drill a 1/4 inch hole in the back for my ProVap 110. When I use the Pro Vap, I close the disk in the front and put tape over the vent holes in the back.

Dcoates Nucs1.jpg

Dcoates Nucs2.jpg
 
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