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These dimensions are for 3/4" material. The joinery is simple butt joints and 2-1/2" screws in pre-drilled holes. Pre drilling is required to not split the material.
Sides are 10-1/4 high x 19-7/8 Long.
The back and front are 3-1/4" wide x 9-1/2 high. The front requires a notch on the bottom edge that is 5/16" high by 1-3/4" wide to form an entrance. I use a notch for the entrance rather than make it full width so it is easier for the small population to guard.
The bottom is 4-3/4" wide by 21" long.
The two sides and front and back are assembled with the bottom edges flush. Then the bottom is attached. The top edges of the front and back are 3/4" below the top of the sides, making the frame rest. The bottom is attached so that it extends 1-1/8" beyond the entrance, making a front porch and a spot to attach a robber screen.
The 4-3/4" x 2" cleats are installed across the front and back top closing the frame rest. I inserted 3/8" shims behind the cleats to fill the frame rest to keep frames from sliding front to back, this is optional.
Drill a ventilation hole in the middle of the bottom and in the back about 4" from the top using a 1-1/2" hole saw or forstner bit. Staple #8 hardware cloth over the holes on the inside. The holes are closed off from the outside using knockout test caps. Tip: Its easier to staple the hardware cloth on before you assemble the nuc box.
The migratory style top is 21-1/4 x 4-3/4.
For a feeder I drill a 1-1/2" hole in the middle of the migratory top and I insert a Gatorade or Powerade bottle of syrup with a few holes poked in the lid with a thumb-tack. The feeder hole can be plugged with a 1-1/2 knockout test cap.
Prime and paint - different colors recommended.
I also install a 1/4" tee nut in the bottom from the inside. I use the tee nut with a long 1/4" bolt with a knob nut to secure the nuc to the stand with an L block that I made. This is optional, there are many ways to secure them - this is something I added late this summer instead of strapping them down.
I only built four of these. They have been used through three summers now and I have no complaints. I also have a mini-frame quad mating nuc, that combined with my standard nucs lets me mate up to a max of 12 queens at a time, but I have never needed to do that many. The quad-mini is the same size as a ten frame medium, so it can store in the stack. The two frames don't have a neat storage stack, it seems I'm tripping over them when they aren't used.
I almost forgot: one huge advantage to the two frames: I pack one along with me when I'm inspecting and use it as a quiet box. When I pull the frame with the queen it can go in the quite box to keep her safe and secure while I finish up.
Sides are 10-1/4 high x 19-7/8 Long.
The back and front are 3-1/4" wide x 9-1/2 high. The front requires a notch on the bottom edge that is 5/16" high by 1-3/4" wide to form an entrance. I use a notch for the entrance rather than make it full width so it is easier for the small population to guard.
The bottom is 4-3/4" wide by 21" long.
The two sides and front and back are assembled with the bottom edges flush. Then the bottom is attached. The top edges of the front and back are 3/4" below the top of the sides, making the frame rest. The bottom is attached so that it extends 1-1/8" beyond the entrance, making a front porch and a spot to attach a robber screen.
The 4-3/4" x 2" cleats are installed across the front and back top closing the frame rest. I inserted 3/8" shims behind the cleats to fill the frame rest to keep frames from sliding front to back, this is optional.
Drill a ventilation hole in the middle of the bottom and in the back about 4" from the top using a 1-1/2" hole saw or forstner bit. Staple #8 hardware cloth over the holes on the inside. The holes are closed off from the outside using knockout test caps. Tip: Its easier to staple the hardware cloth on before you assemble the nuc box.
The migratory style top is 21-1/4 x 4-3/4.
For a feeder I drill a 1-1/2" hole in the middle of the migratory top and I insert a Gatorade or Powerade bottle of syrup with a few holes poked in the lid with a thumb-tack. The feeder hole can be plugged with a 1-1/2 knockout test cap.
Prime and paint - different colors recommended.
I also install a 1/4" tee nut in the bottom from the inside. I use the tee nut with a long 1/4" bolt with a knob nut to secure the nuc to the stand with an L block that I made. This is optional, there are many ways to secure them - this is something I added late this summer instead of strapping them down.
I only built four of these. They have been used through three summers now and I have no complaints. I also have a mini-frame quad mating nuc, that combined with my standard nucs lets me mate up to a max of 12 queens at a time, but I have never needed to do that many. The quad-mini is the same size as a ten frame medium, so it can store in the stack. The two frames don't have a neat storage stack, it seems I'm tripping over them when they aren't used.
I almost forgot: one huge advantage to the two frames: I pack one along with me when I'm inspecting and use it as a quiet box. When I pull the frame with the queen it can go in the quite box to keep her safe and secure while I finish up.
