Beesource Beekeeping Forums banner
1 - 20 of 47 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,730 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i'm desperate for help.

there has already been slight fermentation in the comb in the open cells, and after extracting today and mixing the capped and uncapped honey my concern is that @ 22% the fermentation will start up again.

my only experience with home brewing is that i ran a few 5 gallon carboys several years ago making pear cyser with leftover pears from the farm and using honey for sugar.

the cyser didn't turn out great and had a slight vinegar taste to it. not sure if it was the pears, the honey, or the wild yeasts, (the pear juice was already fermenting when i started).

i don't have freezer space big enough to store the 5 gallon buckets of honey.

i have three 5 gallon carboys and most of the other stuff left, but i think i will have to make a run to the home brewing store anyway.

i am wondering if i should get a yeast that kills the wild yeast, and would be very grateful for any other advice on how to go about this.

many thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Regarding fermentation. If you plan to make some type of mead and want to kill the wild yeast and use a commercial yeast, look up Campden tablets. These are potassium metabisulphate. They are mixed in your batch one day to shock or stun the wild yeast. It dissipates after 24 hours at which point you can inoculate with your purchased yeast. The tablets can be purchased at any home brew establishment.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
2 ways to go I think.
1) ferment it with the wild yeast. These days farmhouse ale is all the rage and its a bit tart , I love it
2) Pasteurize the honey with campden tabs as K above suggests or just almost boil it for mead with some fruit .
Fair market? Bulk honey is cheap unfortunately so I can't give you advice there. What is it worth to you and to your buyer?
hth
Sj
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,730 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
ferment it with the wild yeast.
many thanks zb.

with so much honey and not enough carboys i'm going to have to do both unless i can sell it.

I am seriously thinking about trying some with adding nothing at all except water. what's the most honey/water ratio do you think i could get by with?

later on tonite i am going to go back into the archives and read up some of those threads.

i sent an email pitch to a meadery located 45 miles away to see if they might want to do something with it.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,730 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
dang, everybody is out of campden.

zb, how long will it sit after bringing it to almost boil before it starts fermenting again? what type of fruit would you consider and does the fruit slow boil with the honey or is the fruit added to the honey after the slow boil?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,730 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
gonna start here:

 

·
Registered
4ish langstrom hives
Joined
·
2,038 Posts
I think if you get it hot (above 160F) and seal it while it is still hot it will kill the yeast and it will not start fermenting again unless yeast is reintroduced.
Organism Font Rectangle Happy Screenshot



edit: this experiment is what that makes me say if you kill everything by getting it hot, it should not come back in a sealed container https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_Pasteur#Spontaneous_generation
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,730 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i was able to dig out two 5 gram packs of lalvin ec-1118 and three 5 gram packs of lalvin 71b-1122. i also have some b-brite cleanser (sodium percarbonate), and some yeast energizer. i couldn't find my carboy brush.

do any of these items go bad after 6 or 7 years?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,730 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
many thanks for the replies everyone.

i also found and blew the dust of a hydrometer and test stand.

i see now my question about how much honey to use in the recipe will be determined to some degree by the hydrometer readings of the must. i'm thinking about shooting for an initial reading of 1.090 or so, but welcome any suggestions.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,730 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
good news i think. the bucket i extracted yesterday is not showing any signs of self fermentation. this gives me a little breathing room and keeps me from having to use sulfites (campden).

still all things considered and given the history of this mead honey i am leaning toward pasteurizaiton before running it.

thanks again all, and to the forum in general. those archived threads proved very helpful as well.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,730 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
a question i have regarding pasteurization - if i add fruit to the must should i pasteurize the fruit as well? i am guessing yes, because if the goal is to eliminate wild yeasts the fruit may harbor some of those as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
794 Posts
I generally shoot for 1.070-1.075, which gives a 9-10% abv. That seems to give a good balance, at least for my tastes. 1.090 would hit about 12%, which is fine as well, especially if you are adding fruit.

I don't think you need to pasteurize the honey, especially not if it hasn't already started noticeable fermentation.

I like to put the fruit in the secondary, after the yeast has run the honey must dry. Any yeasts on the fruit won't get started in that environment.

Generally you should freeze the fruit first, which bursts the cells, and releases the fruit goodness better. Depending on the fruit and the desired result, 1-3 pounds per gallon is typically recommended.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Fivej

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,758 Posts
Good advice given. I will just add to sanitize everything you use, including your hands. Doin The Most and Man Made Mead are 2 good YouTube channels to refer to. J
 
1 - 20 of 47 Posts
Top