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Have come into some older bee hives deeps with no frames, wondering if they would make a good swarm trap? My plan is to put a soild bottom on a, center cut inch and half entry hole and on the inside hardware cloth to keep birds out. Does the top cover need to be same size as hive body? or can you use a hive cover off some old hives instead? I do have old comb and LGO, any input or comments would be great.
 

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Looks good! I personally like to use a thicker wood as the top, as I noticed thinner stuff warps. Just as long as the lid covers to keep out both sunlight and rain and doesn't come off when you transport, use what you have. Good luck! I also wouldn't put them too high, as they will be heavy to move. As an old box, they are a big bee magnet.
 

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I too am just starting out trying swarm traps. I screwed an eyebolt(3/4inch long thread) into 2 opposite sides of my box and plan to use a ratchet strap to hold it to the tree. What I haven't seen anyone here is adding wood screws drilled from the inside out and the tips will lightly dig into tree bark adding extra stability and security to the tree. I got my modifications from thinking about tree stands(hunting). Tried mine out and they work great, even in the 20 mph wind we have been having. Another plus is that there are only the screws and eye bolts attached not a hanging board. This way there is no need to screw into the tree either. juzzer

check out LetmBee's site above. I did last week and followed a lot of what he did. A lot of good info. for us beginner's. Thanks.
 

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I put screws in my first nine boxes just as you describe back in 2011. I did my next 9 traps without the screws. The last 10 were constructed without the screws. As long as you are using a strap, a bee hive weighs a lot less than a tree stand with a hunter in it. The screws works but they dig in to your hand and anything you set the trap next to. The strap will hold it steady.

Post a picture of your hanging method step by step. I am always looking for easier ways to do things.
Here's how I do it...: http://letmbee.com/do-it-yourself/how-i-hang-a-swarm-trap/
 

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>I screwed an eyebolt(3/4inch long thread) into 2 opposite sides of my box
me too, it works very simple and easy to hang traps 10-20 ft in a tree.

000_0328.jpg

220lb trout line string from walmart held this box in this tree as the house lost shingles to a small tornado last spring. Throw the spool over a branch and hoist the box up.

I do my 10 frame deeps traps the same way.
 

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I add screws on 2 sides of the trap, that way it is all set depending which direction I want it facing. They are opposite sides to my eyebolts. I screw two, about 2 inches down from top and 2 screws about 3 inches up from the bottom each just a bit wider than my handles. They did jab my hand a few times but it does hold it steady as I strap it on to the tree. It also keeps it from shifting if the tree bark is shallow or really smooth. Some screws did bend as I cranked on the ratchet so I will be using thicker diameter screws for the rest of my boxes. juzzer

**flower planter- I considered hoisting mine up on a pully or over a branch as well but I thought, "how will it keep from blowing back and forth in the wind?" Are yours tightened down some how or do they move? Is it bad if a swarm trap is not tight to a tree and allowed to blow in the wind?** I love seeing that picture, I am more pumped to hopefully see that on my boxes this year than I am about getting my new packages this weekend. First year swarmer....I'm hoping for some success....
 

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>flower planter- I considered hoisting mine up on a pully or over a branch as well but I thought, "how will it keep from blowing back and forth in the wind?

Most of the time I position the string near the trunk of the tree so one side is resting against the tree, try to keep the box level from right to left for the foundationless frames. Or I pull it tight right up to the branch which usually has some small branches to hold it. These two methods work most of the time but one a year catches a swarm that when it fills with bees/honey it streches the sting and the boxes spins in the wind. Kinda cool to watch the bees figure it out. They wait in a holding patern until the entrance comes around then fly in, as other are waiting at the other end. Like the game kids play green light red light...

>I love seeing that picture
Thanks me too, plus it's the only one I have on this comp.

>I'm hoping for some success....
The more traps you set the more you will catch :D

My first year I made 30 traps over the winter, hoped I would catch even one swarm. Did not have much comb, used frames from one deadout. And LGO and some comercial lures. Some of my boxes had no comb. 33% that year, I think around 10.

The second year was last year I increase my traps to 40 and caught 20 swarms - 50 %. I had brood frames and brood comb pieces in all my traps, with a queen or two mixed in LGO

This year I have the same 40 traps as last year in most of the same spots from last year. All traps had at lease one brood comb frame most have two. LGO has many queens mixes in.
 

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Ha, that is hilarious!! I would love to see them wait, wait and then go for it. Although brood frames seem to be best, have you ever tried a frame of drawn honey comb(honey extracted)? I have more of those frames than I do brood frames. Thanks, juzzer

**crewdog-sorry to snake in on your thread but I hope you are getting some good thoughts.**
 

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>Although brood frames seem to be best, have you ever tried a frame of drawn honey comb(honey extracted)?
Yes, the first year I used what I had several frames and pieces were white comb. Figured it was better than nothing. I had a frame that was 3/4 complete, it smelled sweet like honey. I remember thinking that frame should catch a swarm just cause it smells so good. Well it did.
 
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