[dannyidp]

I have a question,which may be a dumb question, but this is my first year and I am concerned and want to do what is best for the bees and me. I have deep supers 9/1/8 when I put my ten frame in the box I seem to have the recommenced space between all the frames (3/8'') but on the end frames there is roughly 1''1/16 when pushed all to one side. So when I even it all out I have 3/8 and the ends are around 9/16 between the box and outside frames.Is these perfectly normal are will the bees fill this with propilus? :scratch: thanks for any and all input..........

 

[dixiebooks]

I was trying to evenly space all my frames but then read somewhere that they should be all scrunched together in the center. So, that is what I do now, leaving the free space evenly divided among two sides. -james

 

[honeyman46408]

Yep push them to the center mabee after a year or so you can use 9 per box but for now use 10 pushed to the center

 

[AstroBee]

Keep the frames in the brood area pushed tightly together and evenly distribute the extra space between the outer frames and the walls. Do not try to evenly space brood frames in the interior. If you do the bees will eventually build out comb (either honey or drone) to fill the extra gaps making it harder to manage later.

 

[Countryboy]

With 10 frames, the bees are going to build bridge comb between the frames. It's a mess, and makes it a pain to work the brood nest.

With 9 frames in the broodbox, it's even worse than using 10 frames.

Trim your frames to 1 1/4 inch wide, and you can fit 11 frames in the broodbox. My bees rarely build any bridge comb between the top bars, and it makes it much easier for me to work the broodbox.

1 3/8 inch standard frames should be outlawed for broodboxes. The only 1 3/8 inch wide frame I approve of is the green Pierco drone frame, as 1 3/8 is the correct spacing for drone comb.

 

[fish_stix]

The standard 10 frame boxes and standard frames work just fine if you center them as stated above. The space at the sides will decrease as the frames age and the bees build them out with propolis. In the meantime, it helps you get the first frame out without squashing or rolling the queen.

 

[dannyidp]

Thanks guys for the info,it's much appreciated!!! Dan.....

 

[Robee]

I discovered that it is very hard to pull framed for inspection when they are all bridged together. This is my second year with Langs and have pushed the frames all together and centered them in the box. Just as Countryboy said, they build bridge comb and it is a real pain. I think I will try his sugestion and shave some frames down for hives that I plan to start in the spring. I know I have no problems with 1 1/4 inch brood bars in my top bar hives.
Robee

 

[jmgi]

>1 3/8 inch standard frames should be outlawed for broodboxes.

It's sure nice to hear someone else say this, I honestly don't know why they keep building them 1 3/8", well, I know why, but why can't the supply companies make 1 1/4" frames for brood chambers for those who want to use them, I gotta believe they would sell a ton of them. It's the proper spacing in nature for brood, they've known this for 150 years at least! I know you can trim them yourself, but.......:ws John

 

[wolfpenfarm]

>1 3/8 inch standard frames should be outlawed for broodboxes.

I know why, but why can't the supply companies make 1 1/4" frames for brood chambers for those who want to use them, I gotta believe they would sell a ton of them.

I wouldn't be opposed to making them 1 1/4" to sell. how many do you want?

 

[Countryboy]

but why can't the supply companies make 1 1/4" frames for brood chambers for those who want to use them,

In the For Sale section, Gene Weitzel is selling Environmentally Friendly Woodenware (thread is titled something like that) and he is selling 1 1/4 frames.