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Formic Acid "Not Working" On Hot Days In The South?

935 views 16 replies 11 participants last post by  Phyrric  
#1 ·
I recently had a conversation with a research and extension person, and mention was made of an inability to use Formic Acid in Southern states when it is "too hot".

This confused me slightly, as I had always assumed that the bees did a good job of regulating brood nest temps (95F to 98F) and keeping a minimum relative humidity level (55% and up) in the brood area regardless of the outside conditions. I can understand that extremely high humidity days along the Gulf Coast can be damp enough to shut down formic outgassing, but there is no harm in extending the treatment by a few days if that kind of thing happens for a few days, as the formic simply stays in the package.

I'm interested in this, as I really like using Oxalic and Formic acid much more than using the various neurotoxins, as the mites can become resistant to a neurotoxin, but can't become resistant to a physiological attack posed by the acids. And if the formic isn't working as expected for some folks, this is worth looking into, as there are good models for things like Formic outgassing (Clausius-Clapeyron relationships, Raoult's law, Antoine's equation...) and it is not hard to collect samples and measure the actual amount for formic in the air inside the beehive versus what the ideal range for killing mites on bees and mites inside cells is. As temperature goes up, outgassing can increase at an "exponential" rate, so knowing the actual temp at the pad versus what the pad puts out sounds like something that needs some work.

Formic is the only non-neurotoxin that kills mites in the cell, and this is crucial to control of mites. If it is not working as well as it should, or if the output is too high, and harming brood, there should be a fairly simple approach of covering some of the perforated area on the formic pad depending on the temperature range, so duct tape to the rescue?

I'd like to hear from anyone who followed the instructions, yet still had problems with formic.
 
#2 ·
Well Jim, I can give you >> my answer << for what it's worth:
I am commenting on Miteaway Quick Strips, not Pro.
The problem >>in my opinion<< stems from a "one size fits all" formic dispenser (pad).
While I am very grateful for NOD's strips and have used tons of them, there certainly is a better way.
Way back in the beginning of time, David Vanderdussen presented at the Oregon State Beekeepers Association Fall Conference and I was able to pick his brain on some of the design concepts he was willing to share.
There were at least 5 design aspects of the strips that were aimed at the regulation of vapor emission.
They were of very impressive and respectable engineered processes in manufacturing, and packaging.
But to this day, it >> seems to me << that the outcome design is upside down.

One, single size pad. Your choices are to install one or two. That is the extent of their dosing options.
Add to that, and this is rarely talked about; the product changes steadily during storage.
Brand new product, fresh off the production line behaves somewhat close to their instructions for use.

Products stored per package instructions but nearing expiration date begin to sweat. You will notice that they do not slip out of the package as easy. Strips installed in that state give an impressive initial flash treatment in comparison to new product. BANG!! It is my belief that much of queen loss often spoken of is the result of aged product.

WAY before NOD, I was using liquid formic @ 65% in various application medium.
The blue ribbon, HANDS DOWN >> in my experience << goes to Mitegone dispensers, invented by the late, great Bill Ruzika.

With Mitegone pads, one selects the pads that MATCH the volume of the hive.
Hive volume x requires n amount of formic vapor volatilized daily.
And they worked as designed.
Don't believe it? Weigh the pads after soaking prior to installation in the hive. Then, return to the hive and weigh again, day after day.

To generalize, the specific gravity of 65% formic is so close to water, we can round and accept that one ml =1 gram.
O.K. in this hive we have 3 pads that need to volatilize 6 ml each per day. And look at that; 6 grams lighter!!
And it works. It just works.

I prefer this VERY flexible dosing design.
It's been a while since I used liquid formic but I do not remember excessive queen loss from that time.

In defense of NOD, when Quick Strips first hit the market, rumors of beekeepers loosing over 25% were flying around here in Oregon.
Dr, Ramesh Sagili from Oregon State University Decided to investigate this in my back field with me as his research assistant for the project.
We didn't lose a single queen. o_O
 
#3 ·
This confused me slightly, as I had always assumed that the bees did a good job of regulating brood nest temps (95F to 98F) and keeping a minimum relative humidity level (55% and up) in the brood area regardless of the outside conditions. I can understand that extremely high humidity days along the Gulf Coast can be damp enough to shut down formic outgassing, but there is no harm in extending the treatment by a few days if that kind of thing happens for a few days, as the formic simply stays in the package.
This is where some of the problem lies, I suspect. They can't always keep the internal temperatures at this state in a thin box, in various environments. Otherwise we'd never see bearding.
 
#4 ·
[QUOTE="HarryVanderpool, post: 20.
Dr, Ramesh Sagili from Oregon State University Decided to investigate this in my back field with me as his research assistant for the project.
We didn't lose a single queen. o_O
[/QUOTE]
Mitegone sounds good. I don't think that it's currently available. My experience with formic strips is that, in my warm but not super hot climate, they dry out very quickly. So for me they seem more like a flash treatment, which can be hard on the bees. Just my 2 cents!
 
#5 ·
Randy Oliver just posted this to Bee-L today regarding the VarroxSan strips and humidity. I'm very interested to hear more on both acids and RH effects on efficacy as I'm in the humid coastal area of Virginia with mixed results with VX.
(I'm also exploring the 65% straight formic on capped brood for control under the cappings but that is not part of this thread.)
Image
 
#7 ·
(I'm also exploring the 65% straight formic on capped brood for control under the cappings but that is not part of this thread.)
It's been a long time since our study, but a couple of points stuck with me:
We did investigate efficacy under the cap.
There is one instance in which mites are not killed under the cap.
In the instance of OLD, DARK, THICK, waxy repaired comb where the cell spacing is increased; mites in those patches survive.

I also wanted to rant about some craziness in the formic world:

"You can treat during a honey flow". Who thinks this is a good idea?
This at a time when the bees have their HVAC running FULL BLAST bringing in fresh air and blowing out moist air in order to dry honey.
What else is getting blasted out the entrance 24 / 7? Formic vapor!

The same concept applies during high heat periods.
When temps are in the 90s or higher, queen and brood loss has been reported after formic placement.
My guess is that this damage occurred immediately after pad placement.
But then what? Yep! The vapor is blasted right out the entrance 24 / 7 as the bees cool the hive with evaporative cooling.

"If you're worried about queen loss, just offset your top box back 1 1/2 inches for added ventilation".
This is honestly the dumbest thing I have ever seen in beekeeping print in all my years.
It's GREAT advice if your only interest is selling pads. Controlling varroa? Not so much.
My very loud response at the time was, "Better yet; just lay the pads on the ground in front of the hive".

Us beekeepers have just too much fun sorting through all of this! :)
 
#6 ·
Formic acid and fume boards was the first organic acid treatment I used for a couple of years, but the volatility of formic with varying temperatures made the outcomes of the treatments unreliable. Then went on to Oxalic acid which was stable at any ambient temperature which made the treatments more predictable and have been there ever since.
 
#8 ·
I have a very simple answer for you:

The distance from where the Formic Acid is placed from where the actual brood nest is located will have different temperatures. The bees are only going to warm/cool the ACTUAL BROOD - not the entire box.

Ergo - formic acid will vapor off too quickly when the air temp is too hot.
 
#9 ·
The distance from where the Formic Acid is placed from where the actual brood nest is located will have different temperatures.
Well, yes of course, but that is a "stupid beekeeper trick", not an inherent fault of the product, which is intended to take advantage of the steady temperature regulation of the broodnest, one presumes.

They can't always keep the internal temperatures at this state in a thin box, in various environments.
If they can't keep the broodnest tightly regulated on temp and at a minimum humidity, they they would lose brood. Are you saying that brood dies in some set of conditions, and the bees cannot maintain the environment they need?

Randy Oliver just posted this to Bee-L today...
I was a lurker on Bee-L for nearly two full decades before I was so bold as to presume to "contribute" a comment. In the early pre-AOL and CompuServe days, Bee-L was, like BitNet, only accessible at universities and computer companies, so most everyone on Bee-L was a university research entomologist, almost zero beekeepers as so few had day jobs with computer companies. I've seen a lot of beekeepers come and go, and I'm sure that if Randy ever gets any results that are acceptable to a refereed journal, he will shout about it from the rooftops. But as he never seems to want to let anyone subject his "data" to standard statistical analysis, or even let anyone just look at his data, he will simply remain a performance artist, and you would be unwise to ever get between him and any microphone or camera. ;)

My very loud response at the time was, "Better yet; just lay the pads on the ground in front of the hive".
That's a great line! I agree that with Formic, the "approved products" seem to have more issues than the ad-hoc off-label homebrew approaches. But yeah, how much of this is self-inflicted beekeeper shotgun wounds to the foot? Dunno, but when I put in formic, I also slide one card in under the screened bottom, and another one atop the screened bottom to cut down on the problems you mention.
 
#10 ·
If they can't keep the broodnest tightly regulated on temp and at a minimum humidity, they they would lose brood. Are you saying that brood dies in some set of conditions, and the bees cannot maintain the environment they need?
I'm saying that they can't always maintain the brood nest at optimal temperatures in extremely hot conditions.

Losing brood is not the only result, and possibly not the main result, either. You have honey foragers or nurse bees turning into water foragers (workforce diversion), and long-term (for bees) developmental problems.

J. Tautz, S. Maier, C. Groh, W. Rössler, & A. Brockmann, Behavioral performance in adult honey bees is influenced by the temperature experienced during their pupal development, Proc. Natl. Acad. Sci. U.S.A. 100 (12) 7343-7347, https://doi.org/10.1073/pnas.1232346100 (2003).

Abou-Shaara, Hossam F., Ahmad A. Al-Ghamdi, and Abdelsalam A. Mohamed. "Honey bee colonies performance enhance by newly modified beehives." Journal of Apicultural Science 57.2 (2013): 45.

Jones, Julia C., et al. "The effects of rearing temperature on developmental stability and learning and memory in the honey bee, Apis mellifera." Journal of comparative physiology A 191.12 (2005): 1121-1129.
 
#14 ·
You are correct to be concerned. The real issue
Is a large % of queens stop laying during a flash treatment. And resume 5-10 days after treatment
Creating supersedure attempts
Not only is it a poor time to loose a brood cycle its also a poor time to raise a queen in the event you miss a cell. Further more in the event you have bearding during treatment " usually in the first days " you can count on the treatment not being 100%
You can probably work around loosing brood production with well populated colonys , nucs weak colonys not so much however you need to be diligent and ensure any supersedure attempts are thwarted including & especially after your queen resumes laying
 
#15 ·
Quote:
"During a recent trip to speak at NOD Apiary Products in Canada, Betterbee's Director of Research and Education, Dr. David Peck, sat down with Dr. Heather Broccard-Bell, his scientific counterpart at NOD. "

Good video.
Beginning at minute 15.30, they talk about what is happening to Formic Pro at higher temps and then later at temps lower than 50°F.